Seoul
From MaxTravelz
Seoul (서울; ) is the capital of South Korea.
Contents |
Understand
With over 10 million people, a figure that nearly doubles if you include neighboring cities and suburbs, Seoul is by far the largest city in South Korea and the unquestioned economic, political and cultural hub of the country. By some measures, it is the fourth largest urban agglomertion on the planet.
Seoul suffers from a partly unwarranted reputation for pollution and traffic jams. These days, strict emissions laws have brought the pollution under control (but then again, it's certainly no worse than, say, Tokyo) and, while traffic jams do still snarl up Seoul's streets at rush hour, the extensive subway network means that the traveller can easily shortcut through it almost all of the time. With beautiful palaces, great food and a hopping nightlife, Seoul is worth a visit.
Get in
By plane
Incheon Airport
Nearly all international flights to Seoul land at the brand new Incheon International Airport (ICN) west of the city. The airport is well signposted and caters to most traveler needs. There are two tourist information offices and many Global ATMs.
A train link to the airport is under construction. Continual delays have pushed back the scheduled opening of the section between the airport and Gimpo to March 2007, the final stretch to Seoul Station projected to open by 2010. For now, the options are to take a taxi (around W40000/60000 regular/deluxe), or one of the various shuttle buses (60 minutes plus, W8000-12000). There are two main varieties of shuttle bus: one operated by Korean Airlines which services major hotels directly, the other being part of Seoul's public transport system and going to various points in the city. Consult the big maps to figure out which route best suits your needs; you can then find the shuttles outside 1st floor arrivals.
As both buses and taxis are subject to traffic, allow extra time for rush hour delays; one possible shortcut is to take the subway to Gimpo and transfer to a bus there (see below).
Gimpo Airport
The more centrally located but older Gimpo Airport (GMP) caters only to the shuttle service to Tokyo and domestic flights within South Korea. Gimpo Airport is easily reached on subway Line 5 (W1100 and 50 minutes to downtown). There is also a direct bus service between Incheon and Gimpo every 10 minutes, which takes about 30 minutes and costs about W5000.
By train
Seoul is the western terminus of the KTX high-speed line to Busan.
By car
By bus
By boat
Get around
Traffic jams are all too common in Seoul and drivers like to release their pent-up frustration by mowing down pedestrians, so be careful on the streets and head underground when possible.
By subway
In Seoul, you can visit most places by using subways. There are currently 8 lines (10 if you count the Bundang Line and Incheon Line), with a 9th under construction. The lines are numbered and distinguished by different colors. All signs in the subway system are in Korean, Chinese, and English. The signs leading to the platform for a particular direction of travel on a given subway line typically list the names of a number of stations in that direction. Stations each have a 3 digit number, however Koreans don't really make use of these numbers and they're not on most subway maps, so don't rely on them.
Subway fares are based on the distance traveled, but the shortest ride costs 900 Won when using a magnetic ticket, or 800 Won when using a T-money card. Small magnetic stripe tickets are available for single trip or multiple trips, but the vending machines accept only coins; if there's no manned ticket office, there's usually a bill exchanger lurking nearby. Hang onto your ticket until the end of your trip, as you'll need it to get out.
If staying for more than a day or two, consider purchasing a T-money stored value contactless smart card. You can buy this card at most subway stations and many newspaper kiosks near subway entrances. The card itself costs 2500 Won and cash can be charged onto the card as often as you like. When entering and leaving a subway turnstile, place the card on the reader (leaving it inside your purse or wallet is fine) and it will deduct the appropriate fare from the card. When using a T-money card you can transfer between subway and bus at a reduced fare.
Although there is only one subway network, lines 1-4 and 5-8 are run by two different companies, so information is available on two websites:
By bus
Seoul also has an extensive bus service. There are four different kinds of buses. The color and size is different for each of them. The color (blue, green, red or yellow) describes the kind of route the bus takes. For example, red buses are long distance routes, and green buses connect subway stations to the surrounding areas.
By taxi
There are three kinds of taxis in Seoul: regular taxi, deluxe taxi and call taxi. Deluxe taxis are colored black with a yellow sign, and are more expensive than regular taxis but provide better and more comfortable service. Regular taxis are silver. It easy to hail a taxi any time of the day or night along any relatively major Seoul street.
You can call a deluxe taxi wherever you are by calling 3431-5100. Sometimes you can find a visitor's guide taxi which is a kind of deluxe taxi, the drivers of which know English and Japanese and can guide you around Seoul city.
The basic fare for regular taxis is 1900W, with additional fare of 100W applied according to time and distance. In deluxe taxis, the basic fare is 4000W and the additional fare increases in increments of 200W.
If there is more than one passenger, and you are traveling only a short distance (eg 1-2 subway stops) it is usually cheaper to catch a taxi than to take a bus or subway.
Another kind of taxi is the AAFES taxi, although this type is mainly used by US military personnel on post. These taxis generally speak English better than the local taxis and take US$. The basic fare is $1.80 with additional fare of $0.30 according to time and distance. You can call for an AAFES taxi by calling 0505-736-5113.
See
Palaces
As the ancient seat of Korea's royalty, there are no less than 5 major palaces in Seoul, and some are definitely worth a visit.
- Gyeongbokgung, Yulgukno (subway Gyeongbokgung). Seoul's grandest palace and the seat of power for centuries before it was razed in 1592 by a Japanese invasion (and they did a repeat after 1910). Large parts have now been restored and the vast grounds also house the Joseon Palace Museum and the Korean Folk Museum. Entry W3000, open 9 AM to 5 PM daily except Tuesday.
- Changdeokgung, Yulgukno (subway Anguk). Second only to Gyeongbokgung in historical importance, this was first built in 1405 and was the seat of power between 1618 and 1896. The buildings have all been recently restored and freshly repainted, creating a dazzling but still elegant effect that got the palace listed as Seoul's only UNESCO World Heritage Site. Buildings of particular note include the blue-roofed Seonjeongjeon, which was the king's office, and the Daejojeon ("Great Making Hall"), his bedchamber, but most famous of all is the Biwon ("Secret Garden") in the back. Access to the complex is by guided tour only (W3000), Korean-language tours run every half hour but English tours are offered at 11:30 AM, 1:30 PM and 3:30 PM (as of September 2005). Closed Mondays.
Other
- Namdaemun (subway City Hall). The Great South Gate is a symbol of Seoul and has been designated as National Treasure Number 1. Particularly beautiful when floodlit at night, and best combined with a visit to the adjacent Namdaemun Market.
- Dongdaemun (subway Dongdaemun). The old eastern gate of the city still stands though not as impressive architecturally as Namdaemun, the Dongdaemun market is infinitely more interesting than the its couterpart.
- COEX This very large mall is located in Samsung-dong, Gangnam-gu. This state-of-the-art complex for international conferences, and holds 150 specialized exhibitions and 15,000 conventions/events a year. The center also plays a role in promoting international trade by connecting international buyers with local businesses. At COEX is the COEX aquarium , large cinema and the Kimchi museum .
Do
- Horse Racing can be found at Seoul Racetrack in Kwach'on. Races are normally only held during weekends, night racing also takes place during August. During the week, visitors can take guided tours of the grounds.
- Everland is the Korean version of Disney. It is south of Seoul and transportation by bus is the easiest way to get there. Non-stop buses to Everland leave from various parts of Seoul daily.
- Seoulland is a theme park located in Seoul. This park was opened just before the Olympics in 1988. It is easy to get to by subway and is open year round.
- Children's Grand Park is located in Neung-dong, Gwangjin-gu. The park was constructed after the decision of the City Planning Facility in 1971 and was opened on May 5, 1973. The park has a zoo, amusement facilities and restaurants. To get there, simply take the subway to Children's Grand Park. Avoid weekends because the crowds are fierce!
- Clubs In Hongik-University district (usually known as Hong-dae - 'dae' means university in Korean), there are lots of clubs specialized for punk rock, alternative rock, rave, techno, or old music. If you can't find any of those, ask someone for directions. Usually there are lots of westerners.
Learn
Tae Kwon Do, Korea's most popular martial art! For information :Kukkiwon, WTF Headquarters For training in Seoul: Sangrok Gym
Work
There is an immense demand for ESL (English as a Second Language) instruction in Seoul. See the main South Korea article for details.
Buy
Markets
- Namdaemun The largest traditional street market in Korea. This market is located in the center of Seoul and is a famous shopping place for tourists. Clothing for children and accessories are the most-commonly sold goods in this market, but there's lots of food as well and many outdoor eating options, especially in the evening.
- Dongdaemun This market is of equal historical significance to Namdaemun market. While Namdaemun is an old-fashioned market, Dongdaemun market has large buildings that group similar shops together so customers can shop efficiently and save time. One of the buildings here, Dongdaemun General Market, sells Chimachogori, which is a Korean traditional dress, or bedclothes. Some of the shops like Nuzzon are open all night, and one of the most popular buildings for shopping is Doosan Tower (aka Doota).
Fashion
Fashion shopping in Seoul isn't a mere industry, it's an art form. Myeongdong is probably the largest and best-known area.
- Migliore, . One of the biggest fashion buildings in Seoul. It has 17 floors above ground and 7 basement floors. Infomation boards in Migliore are written in Korean as well as English, Japanese and Chinese for foreign tourists.
Apkujong-dong, widely known as "The Beverly Hills of Seoul" is the land of the brand name goods. International brands like Gucci and Prada sit alongside Korean designer brands. The fashionable people of Apkujong are often inspired by celebrity style.
- Galleria A very popular department store.
Near the Cheongdam Intersection lies the heart of the Korean shoe scene. Cutting edge shoe shops include Sue Comma Bonnie, Hyaang, Heels and Namuhana.
Trends often begin in University areas like Hongdae. Hongik University boasts Korea's most famous art school, thus fashion in this area is often influenced by the students' artistic sensibilities. The shops in this area feature funky, punky, boho, and vintage style. Ewha Women's University also has a big shopping area in front of it’s main gate. Many trends also originate here. There are even sewing ladies who can help you make your own designs come to life.
Duty free
Duty free shops: You can use United States＄, Japanese ￥or Korean W. There are clerks who can speak Japanese in nearly every shop. Also the following credit cards are accepted: American Express (AMEX), JCB (Japanese credit card), Mastercard, or Visa. There are duty-free shops in both the Incheon airport and in Myonodon.
Eat
It would take a determined man to starve to death in Seoul — much of Korean social life revolves around food. You may still befall this fate if you insist on English menus and meals consisting only of easily identifiable, familiar ingredients; see South Korea for a quick Korean menu reader. An alternative is to just point and eat, your hosts generally will accomodate.
Budget
Seoul has plenty of budget places to eat. Everything from convenience store junk food and noodles to street stall food and lots of 24 hour Korean fast food restaurants. The 24-hour restaurants are great because they've usually got a wide variety of foods. Some great stews, soups, rice rolls, rice stir-fries and pork steaks with gravy. Prices do vary from about 2,000won to 9,000won at these restaurants.
- Sadongmyenok (사동면옥), Insadong 5-gil (down the alley). Justly famous for its manduguk, a soup of gargantuan homemade dumplings stuffed with meat and veggies and served with side dishes for W5000. English menu available.
Mid-range
- New Delhi Restaurant, Itaewon (Noksapyoung station exit 1, cross overpass, turn right, 2 min up the hill on your left). Run by a Canadian-Indian owner, 15000 won gets you a a wonderful Indian meal. Try the chicken vindaloo, the garlic nan and the samosas.
Splurge
- Once in a Blue Moon Great food and atmosphere are a plenty at this snappy restaurant/jazz bar. Well worth the money for a nice night out. Live jazz music every night.
Drink
Alcohol
- Get ready for Soju, and lots of it. Get used to it, learn to master it. You'll need to if you spend any length of time in this country. It's sort of like a cross between vodka and sake, with the hangover of concentrated Budweiser. If you over-indulge, the popular hangover cure "88" is disgusting but effective.
- OB and Hite are the local brews and will do you just fine. Japanese beer is painfully expensive as many old Korean bureaucrats are still fighting the resistance.
Tea
- Be good to yourself, and try what is widely respected as the best tea in Asia. Korea is the ginseng capital of the world. There is a reason why Koreans are thin, healthy, and happy. They drinks loads of this stuff. The ubiquitous barley tea won't hurt you either.
Nightlife
Itaewon is Seoul's most famous nightlife district, catering largely to foreigners and locals who want to meet them.
- Rocky Mountain Tavern is a Canadian bar for expats living in Korea.
Shinchon = student area, loads more fun than Itaewon
Apgujeong = trendites and yuppies, but still more fun that Itaewon
Sleep
Budget
- Try a Jjimjilbang for between W4,000 and W12,000 per night. You don't get a room of your own but, if you can get your luggage into one of the small lockers you can live quite cheaply for a long time, sleeping in the public sleeping rooms and enjoying the hot-tub and steam room facilities (sometimes a gym is available, also movies and TV shows often play until 11pm or so). To find a Jjimjilbang keep an eye out for the distinctive symbol of a plate with rays of heat rising from it. You may have to investigate as smaller hotels often use the same symbol as well.
Seoul's unofficial backpacker district is Anguk (subway line 3), located just to the north of the city center, within walking distance of the Gyeongsandong and Changdeokgung palaces. You can also reach the area directly from Incheon Airport with bus 602-1 to Anguk-dong stop (W8000, 80 minutes).
- Seoul Backpackers, 30-1 Iksundong, Jongno-gu (subway Anguk), tel. +82-2-3672-1972, . Popular backpacker hangout with English-speaking staff. Dorms W17000, single/double W27000/W37000 with own tiny bathroom. Free breakfast, internet and laundry.
- Seoul Guest House, 135-1 Gyedong, Jongno-gu (subway Anguk), tel. +82-2-745-0057, . Basic rooms with air-con in a traditional Korean-style house from W35,000/night. Shared bathrooms, Internet, TV etc.
Love hotels are also a great option. They cost from W25,000 to W80,000 a night, more on saturday nights and holidays. They are usually in pretty good condition and they sometimes have a PC in the room. They are a lot more fun if you bring a friend or two.
Love hotels are mainly visited by couples who want some private places during day or night, most of the Love hotels (especially those in Gangnam district) are exceptionally clean and usually have widescreen TVs, PCs and so forth.
Mid-range
- President Hotel - right next to the Lotte and conveinent City Hall metro. Go take a spa break at the Lotte for 18,000 won ($15) with the money you saved.
- Hotel Inn (Mapo-gu) - get out of the central business district and stay in a real old-school Seoul neighborhood. Ask where "Mapo meat street" is and eat to your BBQ heart's content. (subway - Mapo). This is also extremely conveient to Yeouido island if you're a financial bigshot.
Splurge
- Lotte Hotel, Myeong Dong (subway Euljiro 1-ga), . The grand old lady of Seoul's hotels with 1,300 rooms, all kept in tip-top shape. The obvious choice for ornate Korean luxury.
- Intercontinental Seoul, 159-8 Samseong-Dong, Gangnam-Gu, tel. (02) 555 5656, .
- W Seoul. The latest boutique hotel in Seoul, located in far east Seoul.
Contact
Internet cafes known as PC bang (PC 방) are ubiquitous in Seoul, and usually cost just 1,000 won (about 1 USD) per hour.
Stay safe
Seoul is generally a remarkably safe city.
Cope
Medical bills can be expensive, so try make efforts to ensure this won't be problem. Some people with sensitive stomachs should be careful in Korea, as the amount of pepper and garlic in the local diet is intense.
Vegetarians are recommended to bring own supply of food or learn to speak Korean quickly or confine themselves to Buddist temples. Asking for no meat often gets the reponse "oh, ok so i'll make it with only a little meat".
Actually if you are an vegetarian you can always eat at many indian restaurants, Italian joints ( who doen't love pizza with sweet potato). Being a veggi is tough but not impposible
Get out
- Panmunjom — The only border crossing between North and South Korea, easily visited on a day trip
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