Dec 30, 2024 • 10 min read
11.12.2024 - 16:39 / lonelyplanet.com
Dec 11, 2024 • 6 min read
Soaring over the provinces of Trentino and Alto Adige in northern Italy, the Dolomites are the Alps in overdrive.
These mountains don’t just deliver height (though the mightiest peak, glacier-capped Marmolada, does top out at 3343m / 10,968ft). They’re about drama. These Dolomites whoosh up like natural fortifications – sheer, big-shouldered and rugged – above an insanely lovely spread of flower-speckled pastures, river-woven valleys, glittering lakes and deep, dark forests. And it’s hard to do justice to the sunsets in the region, when the fading light pinkens limestone summits.
Sound like hiking terrain to you? You’re in luck. Whether you’re clipping on to one of the region’s famous vie ferrate (fixed climbing routes), skirting a lake or hustling up to a mountaintop rifugio (hut) for a bowl of barley soup or plate of buttery dumplings before a downhill scramble, the treks in the Dolomites are varied and rewarding.
Prime time for hitting the high trails is June to September (avoid the school summer holidays for fewer crowds and better chances of scoring a bunk in a hut), but at lower elevations the season extends from April to October.
Read on for five can’t-miss hiking experiences in the Dolomites.
Most legendary Dolomites hike
120km (75 miles), 7–9 days, moderate
The Alta Via 1 is the marquee expedition every savvy hiker wants to bag: the ultimate week-long hut-to-hut stomp through some of the most sensationally wild scenery in the Dolomites. You’ve heard the hype and seen the photos: great fangs of limestone poking above jewel-colored lakes; clifftop rifugi that look as they’ll blow away with the merest gust of Alpine air; ridgetop paths and rocky scrambles to top-of-the-beanstalk viewpoints; fiery sunsets and sunrises.
This one delivers the whole epic lot.
Starting at glass-green, peak-rimmed Pragser Wildsee (Lago di Braies) near Dobbiaco, the waymarked trail carves a path south to its end at La Pissa bus stop, where you can catch a ride on to the Renaissance town of Belluno.
While you’ll find your own magic moments, you’ll for sure rave about the stunning sight of the jagged Cinque Torri rock formations; the glinting Marmolada Glacier; and the hike’s high point, 2752m-high (9029ft-high) Rifugio Lagazuoi, where you can sleep in a bunk and wake up to soul-stirring views of the mountains beyond.
The trail is best hiked from June to September. Dodge peak summer for quieter trails and huts, and be sure to book rifugi stays well in advance. Most of the path is moderately challenging; be prepared for the odd stiff ascent and exposed stretch.
Best high-drama half-day hike
10km (6.2 miles) round trip, 4 hours, moderate
Madre Natura blessed just about every corner of Italy – but she went
Dec 30, 2024 • 10 min read
A gondola ride in Venice is one of the most iconic experiences in Europe. When I recently visited Italy with my children, it was one of the experiences I was most looking forward to sharing with them.
A winding stone path leads down to a long, shady iron pergola draped in wisteria and twisting jasmine, where Prince Fabrizio Ruspoli di Poggio Suasa, the creative force behind all this romance, is sipping a pink martini. Elegant and dashingly handsome, Ruspoli casts an eye over Olinto Atlas Mountain Retreat, his eight-acre (and expanding) garden estate. Shimmering olive trees underplanted with fragrant floriferous white Atlas rose bushes encircle an expansive pool. A walkway below us cuts through swaying, luminous Pennisetum grasses punctuated by sculptural giant agaves and supersize succulents. As we begin to wander, drinks in hand, Ruspoli points out a building in the process of being repainted; the celadon green he'd originally chosen turned out not to be precisely the shade he had envisioned. It's this sort of attention to detail, along with flawless taste, that has turned his dream into a living and growing idyll.
Move over, Spotify Wrapped.
Kathleen O'Donnell, 39, doesn't think she will ever move back to the US.
It's not often that Marika Favé, our impish, fast-talking mountain guide, falls silent. It's a spring morning on the packed, sun-streaked gondola to the peak of the Marmolada glacier, the highest point in the Dolomites. A former national skier for Italy whose family has lived in the Fassa Valley for generations, Favé has been telling Jack, the photographer I'm traveling with, and me about the grimly determined Austro-Hungarian soldiers who dug a small city into the ice up here during the Great War. But as the gondola passes another rocky bluff and great blankets of untouched shadow-draped powder come into view, the war stories cease and a grin spreads across her face. We don't know exactly what the plan is when the gondola clanks to a halt at the Punta Rocca, a viewing platform at 10,700 feet that looks out over all of the Dolomites. But the mountain air seems charged with the palpable sense that, on this exact Thursday morning, something very good is about to happen.
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