I groped my way through the darkness toward the only window in the room, a half-moon-shaped gap in the thick stone walls. The opening to the dawn light outside was barred — a remnant of the dangerous days of Hernán Cortés’s conquest of the Central Mexican highlands in the early 16th century — and screened to protect against more mundane invaders: insects. Had the space, with three big beds in two cavernous rooms, not rivaled the square-footage of some of my former apartments, I might have felt claustrophobic. Instead, I was giddy.
Those 500-year-old walls, a two-hour drive south of Mexico City, insulated us not only from the sweltering July heat, but also from raucous roosters and barking dogs. So when I woke at 5 a.m., it wasn’t because I couldn’t sleep, but because I was excited to see the hotel, Hacienda Vista Hermosa, founded in 1528, in the early morning light.
I fell for Mexico’s haciendas years ago while road-tripping through the country’s interior. Most of the once-grand estates were, at that point, in ruins. Their stone walls, arched gates and aqueducts stood tall above maize stalks and ranch land, but their adobe walls were crumbling, their grounds overgrown, their talavera tiles faded.
Many of these haciendas were seized or destroyed during the Mexican Revolution in 1910, which sought the dismantlement of the plantation-like system in which native Mexicans endured inhumane work conditions. With the agrarian reforms that followed, the haciendas’ farmlands were redistributed and their palatial houses abandoned. In the decades following the revolution, some of these properties, including the Vista Hermosa, began to be reimagined as tourist destinations, but many weren’t restored until later, with a boom in the 1990s and 2000s.
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It has been a full year since the Yucatan Peninsula's Maya Train, or Tren Maya, celebrated its inaugural departure for its first section connecting Cancun to Merida on Dec. 15, 2023. Former Mexican President Andrés Manuel López Obrador set this ambitious, multibillion-dollar project in motion in 2018.
On the top floor of the restaurant Genevose, a man named Fabio, who had recently won the Genoa Pesto World Championship, was gently showing me how to grind basil leaves with a mortar and pestle. “Pesto is a balancing act,” he explained to me in Italian. The leaves must be smashed and not chopped for fear the blade of a knife will over-oxidize them. Salt must be added sparingly because of how much is already in the pecorino and the parmesan cheeses. These may sound like obvious points to any semi-experienced chef, but they were relayed to me with the utmost seriousness—and the final result did not disappoint. After all, we were in Genoa, the birthplace of pesto. Minutes later, our pesto (really, Fabio’s pesto) had been tossed with freshly made pasta, and we sat down to eat our lunch. Nutty, salty, and just a little sweet, the pesto was simple—and utterly perfect.
I never understood the concept of burnout at work. For me, the key to success in the rat race was simple: If you're hungry enough, you will endure; you can't possibly get tired of doing your job if you are tough enough.
Escaping the cold weather with a trip to Mexico is still an affordable possibility. As the temperatures and snow begin to fall across most of the cold-weather states in the coming weeks, a vacation to Mexico is a popular getaway for sun-seekers. For the 2024-2025 winter travel season, many airlines have launched additional flight capacity to Mexico in an effort to keep up with the growing demand. This includes additional flight routes to the newly-opened Tulum International Airport, outside of Cancun.
As you walk through the front entrance of Marriott Cancun, An All-Inclusive Resort, you can’t help but get swept up by the picturesque view from The Greatroom. The massive window provides a full view of the ocean, the beach, and the resort’s main pool.
As a travel editor, few things make me prouder than taking my three-year-old daughter, Olivia, with me on the road. For someone her age, she’s spent an exorbitant number of nights in hotel rooms, and recently completed a two-week road trip across central Mexico with more composure than most American adults would be able to muster. Often, though, our travels aren’t solely focused around her, so it was with great excitement that my wife, Alisha, and I brought her four hours south of our home in Palisade, Colorado, to ride The Polar Express train in Durango. Running nightly from late November through early January, the experience is centered around the kid’s Christmas tale – and it does a fantastic job of bringing it to life. Here’s what to know about The Polar Express including what it’s like, how long it takes, and how much it costs.