Cadiz’s history goes back to its founding by the Phoenicians in 1100 BC, so it’s no wonder that historical sites are scattered around the city. Teatro Romano is one of the most impressive. Built around 70 BC, it is one of the oldest and largest Roman theatres in the Iberian Peninsula, although today, most of it is still under Barrio Populo. The Archaeological site of Gadir is worth a stop as it also takes you back to Phoenician time, while the Bishop’s House archaeological site runs through the city’s evolution, from its inception to modern times.
La Caleta may be the smallest beach in Cadiz, but it’s special. Right in the city centre, the sandy beach is a natural harbour set between two castles. It’s also home to the iconic The Spa of Our Lady of Palma and the Royal, and it’s seen a lot of action over the years – from the Phoenicians using it as a harbour to the actress Halle Berry coming out of its waters in the 2002 film James Bond: Die Another Day. Walk from La Caleta to Campo del Sur promenade to feel like you’re on the Malecon esplanade in Havana.
If La Caleta is too small for you, swim at Cadiz’s three other beaches, Santa María del Mar, Victoria and Cortadura instead. All three have a Q certificate, a mark of Spanish Tourism Quality.
The star-shaped Santa Catalina castle, at the north end of La Caleta, is easily accessible. It’s the oldest fortress of Cadiz, with its first stone laid in the 16th century. San Sebastián castle stands on the south side of La Caleta – walk the levee to get close to it. If you’re interested in maritime defence you may also want to check out the bastions Candelaria, Los Martires and San Felipe and its Walls of San Carlos. Inland, San Marcos castle is built on an old mosque and offers wine tasting in its cellars.
You’ll probably meet most of La Viña’s residents on La Caleta, but the old working-class neighbourhood’s narrow streets, once home to fisherman’s families, are still worth exploring. Today they are filled with tapas bars, restaurants and late-night spots. No other barrio in Cadiz is as lively in the evening, and nowhere has fresher seafood.
Central Market is covered but it somehow manages to extend well past its boundaries, especially on Sundays, when it is surrounded by a flea market. Locals come to Central Market to buy fresh produce such as cheese, olives, the catch of the day or on-the-go food such as fried shrimps. You may also find a stall with oysters that a youngster will open for you on the spot. A flower market is just around the corner, in Plaza de las Flores.
Besides La Caleta, if there is one thing you should do while in Cadiz, it is to visit the Cathedral, which took 110 years to build. Its design is similar to Granada’s as both were designed
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The narrow path weaved along the side of a vertiginous promontory carpeted with ferns and the occasional cluster of buttercups and purple hollyhocks. Wispy tendrils of fog dissolved, and the June sunshine warmed my back as I stood on a wind-sculpted granite boulder and peered into the Atlantic Ocean's cobalt depths. The cries of gulls mixed with the sound of waves crashing against the rocks, releasing cascades of salt-charged spray. I could still see the fingernail outline of the creamy beach we'd traversed earlier, where plovers scuttled from the incoming tide.
This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Morgan Duram, a full-time content creator who moved from Michigan to Madrid. It has been edited for length and clarity.
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