A first-time guide to Granada

02.01.2025 - 17:33 / lonelyplanet.com / Federico García Lorca / El Niño

Jan 2, 2025 • 11 min read

Dramatically situated against the backdrop of the snowy mountains of the Sierra Nevada, Granada was the last Moorish stronghold in Spain, and remains one of Andalucía’s most evocative and beautiful cities.

Today, signs of Granada’s Islamic past linger everywhere: in the horseshoe arches of its centuries-old buildings; in the presence of cármenes, Moorish-style houses with secluded gardens or orchards, and teterías (teahouses); in the atmosphere of the Albaicín, the historic Muslim quarter, and parts of Realejo. Granada’s most famous attraction is arguably the most impressive vestige of Moorish rule in all of Spain: the Alhambra, the fortress-palace of the Nazrid rulers, whose calligraphy-etched structures – sheer poetry in stone – are without peer in Europe.

Beyond its extraordinary Moorish architecture, the city that inspired the work of the great Spanish poet Federico García Lorca draws you in with its lively mix of tapas bars and restaurants that dot the streets of Centro and Realejo; cave dwellings and flamenco peñas (clubs) of the barrio of Sacromonte; monumental churches and handsome stone buildings; the labyrinthine lanes of Albaicín; and the evocative street murals of Granada’s other famous son, El Niño de las Pinturas. All this – not to mention the gregarious nature of its locals – is likely to leave an indelible imprint.

With the exception of July and August, when intense 40°C+ (104°F+) heat sends granadinos fleeing for the beaches of the Costa Tropical, Granada can (and should!) be visited year-round. Visiting outside Spain’s school vacation periods is invariably cheaper for budget travelers. May, September and October are ideal for sightseeing, with fewer crowds and mild temperatures.

There’s plenty of sunshine year-round, and crisp winter days give you the option of dashing up to the ski resort in the nearby Sierra Nevada for a day on the slopes. In February or March, you can catch some of Andalucia’s most impressive Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions, while late May and early June see the city celebrate its biggest annual party, with flamenco dancing, bullfighting, processions and parades.  

Since the city is relatively compact and walkable, you can see Granada’s highlights in a single weekend – though it’s well worth giving yourself a few days to explore properly and perhaps venture beyond the city’s boundaries.

If this is your first visit, give yourself at least half a day to explore the Alhambra properly, then lose yourself in the dog-leg alleyways of the hilly Albaicín neighborhood on the hill opposite, getting a different perspective on the Alhambra from its numerous viewpoints. On day two, spend a few hours wandering the narrow streets and leafy squares of