A first-time guide to Shenandoah National Park

12.07.2024 - 18:32 / lonelyplanet.com

Jul 9, 2024 • 9 min read

Shenandoah National Park isn’t exactly bite-size, but it is well-suited for a one- or two-day visit. This skinny park stretches 105 miles along the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains, where viewpoints overlook the gentle Virginia Piedmont to the east and the farm-dotted Shenandoah Valley to the west. Skyline Drive bisects the park and connects all 70 viewpoints.

Home to more than 500 miles of trails and easily reached from Washington, DC, the park is an excellent day-trip destination. Trails climb to overlooks built by the Civilian Conservation Corps and drop to mossy waterfalls that shimmer after rainstorms. The hike to the rocky summit of Old Rag is one of the most challenging day hikes in Virginia. It’s also a ton of fun. Skyline Drive is refreshingly free of billboards and stoplights, and it’s a fine choice for a leaf-chasing road trip in the fall.

But it’s the small moments in Shenandoah that you might remember most, whether admiring pink azaleas in bloom along the trail or gazing at a broad-winged hawk as it coasts on thermal winds during its annual fall migration.

The park hosts its annual Wildflower Weekend in early May. Later in the month, the park’s azaleas are in bloom and lush green foliage has returned to the trees. June through August is high season, when families travel to the park during the summer break. Expect crowds at campgrounds, lodges and on popular trails. Check weather reports if you plan to hike Old Rag in the high season. Much of the upper route is exposed, leaving hikers vulnerable to the heat and the occasional afternoon storm. 

Crowds converge on Skyline Drive during the fall foliage season, with leaves typically hitting peak color from mid- to late-October. Fall is also a good time to watch the raptors that fly south during their annual migration. They tend to follow the Blue Ridge Mountains during their journey. Skyline Drive remains open year-round, but many park facilities are closed November through February. Before visiting, check the park website for alerts about weather-related road closures in winter.

If you’re pressed for time, don’t sweat it. The park works well for short visits. Start with a dose of park history at the Byrd Visitor Center at Big Meadows, where exhibits tell the story of the park's creation. Next, hike to the summit of Hawksbill and its 360-degree views – look northeast to see the boulders clustered atop Old Rag. Hawksbill is also a pretty spot for a picnic. In the afternoon tackle one of the shorter waterfall trails. Eat dinner at Skyland Resort and admire the technicolor sunset. If you spend the night in the park, make time for an evening ranger talk or a Star Party.

The second day, pack a picnic for the hike to the historic