A first-time guide to the Catskills

13.07.2024 - 01:11 / lonelyplanet.com

Jul 3, 2024 • 11 min read

The Catskills mountains in southeastern New York state are perhaps best known for their vibrant arts scene, breathtaking natural beauty, and ghost stories galore. The mountainous region – which comprises primarily Ulster and Greene counties but also extends into Delaware, Sullivan, and Schoharie counties – has long been a draw for travelers, and its history is as compelling as its diverse contemporary culture. 

In his iconic 1819 ghost tale Rip Van Winkle, writer Washington Irving wrote that anyone who “has made a voyage up the Hudson must remember the Kaatskill mountains,” noting that “every change of season, every change of weather, indeed, every hour of the day, produces some change in the magical hues and shapes of these mountains.” 

Also in the 1800s, the Hudson River School painters flocked here to set up their easels. From the 1920s through the 1960s, many Jewish families from New York City headed to the Catskills for an annual summer escape, and the area became known fondly as the “The “Borscht Belt.” 

You’d likely recognize the most famous of the Catskills’ kosher hotels: the Catskill Resort Hotel, which inspired the 1987 film Dirty Dancing(the hotel sadly burned down in 2022). And, of course, a 1969 music festival that was meant to be held in Woodstock and was ultimately held in the neighboring Catskill town of Bethel, NY made headlines and history. You get the picture here: The Catskills’ cultural keystones are numerous. 

Although the Catskills have clearly been a coveted travel destination for centuries, there’s never been a better time to see the region and explore everything it has to offer. From innovative foodie haunts to unique new music venues to U-Pick farms, food festivals, and forest mushroom tours, the Catskills are in the midst of their best renaissance yet. And you’ll want to be there to experience it all.

Here is the best of what this multifaceted part of New York state has to offer – plus tips for when to visit, what to pack, and more.

The most classic season to visit the Catskills is during the autumn, when the foliage erupts in color and “leaf peepers” flock to the flame-hued mountainsides. But the region’s towns and mountains also come alive in the summer, when travelers and locals alike take advantage of those long daylight hours for yet more hiking and swimming in the lakes. Summer and fall are also home to tons of Catskills festivals highlighting music and local produce (the Margaretville Cauliflower Festival is one for the ages). 

Unsurprisingly, these seasons are also the busiest times across the Catskills, so if you’re not a fan of dodging fellow foliage enthusiasts on the hiking trails and vying for dinner reservations, aim for a shoulder season