A first-time guide to the Dolomites

21.11.2024 - 16:21 / lonelyplanet.com

Nov 21, 2024 • 8 min read

Mountain paradise might not be the first superlative that comes to mind when you think of Italy, but if you know where to look, you'll find Alpine scenery to rival anywhere in Switzerland, Austria or France.

While tourists flock to over-touristed destinations such as Venice, Florence, the Cinque Terre and the Amalfi Coast, the Dolomites – the breathtaking mountains traversing the autonomous provinces of Trentino and Alto Adige and parts of Veneto – remain under the radar, perfectly content with their status as the country’s most spectacular underdog.

Part of the Austro-Hungarian empire until 1918, and annexed by Italy just a year later, this rugged region remains distinct from the Italian mainstream in myriad ways. Take the language – some 70% of Trentino-Alto Adige residents speak German, vastly outnumbering speakers of Italian and Ladin, the region’s other two official languages.

Then there's the cuisine – a hearty and wholly delectable fusion of Italy and the Alps – and the architecture, blending Austrian baroque and a pinch of traditional Südtiroler farmhouse. And as for the culture? Well, you’re not in Napoli, anymore, Dorothea! Taken together, this makes for a fascinating cultural collision.

Coupled with incredible winter sports and summer outdoor adventures, the Dolomites stand tall as one of the most intriguing – and drop-dead gorgeous – spots on earth. Here's what you need to know on your first trip.

The Dolomites offer incredible experiences in summer and winter, but outside of the major cities, the region is not well set up for year-round tourism. After the winter ski season ends in February, many hotels close until May, alongside other tourist-dependent infrastructure, so spring is best avoided.

In summer, outdoor adventures rule in the region’s pristine national parks, with hiking, climbing, cycling and mountain biking hogging the spotlight through until September. Then there’s a second period of closures in October and November, before the winter ski season ramps up in December.

Winter is a great time to visit. You can whoosh down some of Europe’s most compelling skiing and snowboarding slopes at 31 ski resorts, and enjoy atmospheric Christmas markets during the holidays in Bolzano, Merano and other hubs.

The Dolomites cover nearly 1500 sq km of northeastern Italy, and getting around can take time. The first question to ask yourself is whether you want to hone in one place (such as a particular ski resort or city) or move around, exploring as much of the region as possible. Either way, give yourself at least a week in the mountains.

When visiting cities such as Bolzano, Merano, Bressanone and Trento, you can take in the highlights in a day or two, but exploring the