In the 1980s, when I planned my first trip to Europe, I can’t remember which Frommer’s travel guidebook I brought along. It might have been “Europe on $25 a Day” or “Europe on $40 a Day.” Either way, I had Arthur Frommer by my side.
09.11.2024 - 23:27 / nytimes.com
For 60 years, Baltazar Ushca worked a rare but rigorous trade: ice merchant. Once or twice a week, he climbed snow-capped Mount Chimborazo, Ecuador’s highest peak, to hack ice from a glacier with a pickax, wrap the 60-pound blocks in hay and transport them on the backs of his donkeys. He would then sell them to villagers who did not have electricity and needed refrigeration to conserve their food.
It started as a family business. Mr. Ushca’s father, Juan, was an ice merchant, as were his brothers, Juan and Gregorio, and they made their very modest livings off the Chimborazo ice.
But Mr. Ushca, who was 4-foot-11, chipped at the ice decades after modern refrigeration came to his village, by which time his job was nearly obsolete. He gradually became known as the last of his breed, selling his blocks of ice for a few dollars each largely to vendors in a market in Riobamba, Ecuador, for use in fruit drinks and making ice cream.
“The natural ice from Chimborazo is the best ice,” Mr. Ushca said in a short documentary, “El Último Hielero,” or “The Last Ice Merchant” (2012), directed by Sandy Patch. “The tastiest and the sweetest. Full of vitamins for your bones.”
Once he reached the market, he delivered the blocks of ice by carrying them on his back.
“My kids would say, ‘Why suffering so much?’” Gregorio Ushca said the documentary. “‘Being so cold, walking far, if you almost make no money?’”
In the 1980s, when I planned my first trip to Europe, I can’t remember which Frommer’s travel guidebook I brought along. It might have been “Europe on $25 a Day” or “Europe on $40 a Day.” Either way, I had Arthur Frommer by my side.
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