Best things to do in Kefalonia: from literary romance to wild scenery
21.07.2023 - 07:33
/ roughguides.com
From sublime fishing villages to the epic romance of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin — set on the ravishing Ionian island and published 25 years ago this summer — Kefalonia is so perfect it almost feels imaginary. It’s the old-fashioned Greek island you’ve searched so long to find, with pinch-yourself beaches, mint-blue seas and pastel-painted villages. Here are just a few of the top things to do in Kefalonia.
The information in this article is inspired by The Rough Guide to Greece , your essential guide for visiting Greece .
When Louis de Bernières released the bestselling historical war romance Captain Corelli’s Mandolin in 1994, it caused a minor sensation. Fast forward a quarter of a century and its blue-and-white tablecloth cover, a Hollywood adaptation with Nicholas Cage, Penélope Cruz and Christian Bale, and a new touring stage musical have made it almost ubiquitous.
Not that you’d know Hollywood was ever here. There are few, if any, mentions of the film or book’s legacy on the island and there’s a sense locals have forgotten about it, too. Arguably this is because most visitors cluster near the airport around the sandy beachfront of Lassi and Skala, some 40km further away to the south.
De Bernières is not the only author to have been inspired by the landscape here. Romantic poet and Grecophile Lord Byron wrote poetry in the town of Leivathos during a visit in 1823. Look out for the marble inscription at Byron’s Rock reading: “If I am a poet, I owe it to the air of Greece.”
Before you set off on your trip to Greece, take a look at our list of tips for travelling in Greece.
Relaxing on the gorgeous beaches — one of the best things to do in Kefalonia © Adisa/Shutterstock
If you prefer to fly-then-flop, marquee beaches like Myrtos and Agia Jerusalem still need to be reached by tackling Top Gear-style roads that twist down steep cliffs. Platia Ammos, northwest of the island capital Argostoli, requires a boat shuttle to reach it, as do Xilomata and Kutsupia. These beaches can push you out of your comfort zone, but the best way to get to know Kefalonia is to explore it properly.
The northern and western mountainous part of the Kefalonia is known as Anogí. Some 10km (6 miles) up the coast – longer by the winding roads – is undoubtedly the finest beach on the peninsula, Petaní, a beautiful stretch of pebbles backed by steep cliffs.
The road along the east coast plunges down a very steep (10 per cent) hill, passing by Xýngi and around a headland with numerous sea caves, to the beach at Makris Gialós. Here, there is a camping ground, several places to eat and sea caves you can swim into right by the beach.
Explore the beauty of Greek beaches with our guide to the best beaches in Greece.
Road to Myrtos Bay and