British break in Brecon Beacons, Wales

20.07.2023 - 13:21 / wanderlust.co.uk

According to local legend, the Brecon Beacons took their name from ancient signal fires lit on the mountains to warn of invaders. Whether that’s true or not, there’s clearly been a fear of invasion in this part of South Wales, with castles, forts and other defensive sites right across the Brecon Beacons National Park, from the Iron Age through to Second World War anti-tank blocks. Many of the defences are still standing.

The closest thing to an ‘invading force’ now are the visitors who come to hike, bike, paddle or ride horses through the park’s wild spaces. The only fires I saw on my visit were in warm, welcoming pubs.

Established in 1957, the Brecon Beacons is one of Wales’ three national parks. At the heart of its 1,347 sq km are the striking Beacons themselves: Pen Y Fan (886m), the UK’s highest mountain south of Snowdon, and Corn Du (873m). But within the boundaries, there are also the Black Mountains in the east, the Black Mountain to the west, and forests, rivers, lakes, caves and waterfalls. Alongside countless sheep, I shared the countryside with red kites and, on the slopes of Sugar Loaf, roaming Welsh mountain ponies.

Nature’s the main draw. But there’s plenty of cultural life here, too, from the Green Man music festival to the literary  Hay Festival. There are also Welsh wine producers and a whisky distillery.

Some spots can get crowded, but there are plenty of options to get space to yourself. COVID-19 restrictions and renovations mean a few attractions, including the Brecon Mountain Railway and several castles, are currently closed. It’s good to have adaptable plans; hiking the high mountains isn’t advisable in bad weather. Take a map and plan hikes carefully.

The eastern half of the park, which includes the Brecon Beacons range, Brecon, Crickhowell, Llangorse Lake and Hay-On-Wye, has plenty to fill a few days. But there are good reasons to also head deeper into the park’s less-visited and wild(ish) west.

“There’s nothing wrong with big walks, but there are lots of lovely little local walks too. You just have to ask people. There’s one from Langestry on the right side of Llangorse Lake, with a little church that’s always open, and a bird hide where you can see a mix of birds. I love it there. It’s so peaceful."

- Elaine Morgan, Beacons Farm Shop at the Welsh Venison

Stroll around the peaceful town  of Crickhowell, from the ruins of Crickhowell Castle down past whitewashed houses to its 18th century stone bridge, which crosses the River Usk.

Then pick a hike. Sugar Loaf Mountain’s an easy-going intro to the local scenery, with 360-degree views of hills; you can be up and down in a couple of hours.

For a more epic challenge, the Horseshoe Ridge Walk takes in Pen Y Fan,