Low-cost Icelandic airline Play is making it easier to travel this fall and winter with $99 flights to popular cities across Europe.
24.09.2024 - 22:15 / cntraveler.com
Daniel Humm reminds me of my Swiss grandmother.
I’m at Magic Farms in upstate New York sitting across from the lauded Eleven Madison Park chef, a table topped with gazpacho, torn bread, and glasses of white wine between us. We’re joined by Maciek Kobielski, a dear friend of Humm’s, and the farmer whose family's land we are on. A gentle summer rain is kissing the soil outside, nourishing the sunflowers and plump tomatoes that will soon travel several hours south to New York City, and land on the plates of diners willing to shell out $365 for a 9- to 10-course tasting menu at Humm’s iconic plant-based restaurant.
It’s July, and I’m one of the few people who know that Humm will soon be announced as UNESCO’s first-ever Goodwill Ambassador for Food Systems, a role built on years of advocating for more sustainable food sourcing. He drizzles olive oil atop our gazpachos as he describes the elegance of farm-to-table produce—contrasting it with traditional markers of luxury dining, like caviar whose production has become increasingly less natural ("there's nothing luxurious about caviar today,” he says, waving a hand dismissively)—I can’t help but think about my maternal grandmother's similar celebration of simple, nutritional ingredients in her cooking, and her refusal to allow trends, or flash for flash’s sake, to sway her belief that “real” food was the finest food.
Humm, who is originally from Strengelbach, Switzerland, but has lived in the US for decades, pauses then smiles when I ask if it’s a Swiss thing, this way of viewing simplicity and a closeness to nature as the ultimate refinement when it comes to eating. “I grew up in Switzerland with hippie vegetarian parents, and they were insane, always playing around with these different diets,” says Humm. “I thought my parents were so weird, and I would go to school with my lunch in a glass Tupperware container. Later on, I realized how lucky I was—they were fermenting nuts, and grains, and we were composting like 40 years ago.” Humm’s parents might have been more extreme than some, he admits, but “Switzerland is light years ahead” of countries like the US when it comes to sustainable food systems. This type of eating, he says, isn’t just about living well, but about a responsibility to the planet. And it's time more of us caught on.
Chef Daniel Humm, of Eleven Madison Park, is UNESCO’s first-ever Goodwill Ambassador for Food Education.
This thinking is innately linked to Humm’s growing emphasis on plant-based eating and sustainable food sourcing, marked by the 2021 decision to transition Eleven Madison Park from the foie-gras-slinging kitchen it once was to an entirely vegan operation (though he doesn't love that word, “vegan,” but more on that later). It
Low-cost Icelandic airline Play is making it easier to travel this fall and winter with $99 flights to popular cities across Europe.
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