When my partner and I travel together, we usually opt for city breaks.
18.09.2023 - 13:33 / theguardian.com
Swifts dart and swoop from Norrqvarn’s eaves, the morning sun filtering through the pines as I load my panniers and get set for a slow day’s cycling. A former mill turned welcoming and, crucially, affordable hotel, Norrqvarn is my starting point for a multi-day bike ride taking in Sweden’s most impressive engineering feat, the Göta canal. The canal celebrated its 200th anniversary in 2022 and the newly opened Göta kanalleden section is the main attraction along Sweden’s national cycle route 7.
Getting the Göta canal primed for national cycling route status has been a years-long project, explains Amanda Hessle, my guide for the day (from local agency Värdskapsbyrån). Regular picnic sites replete with barbecues, fika (coffee and cake) spots alongside many of the 58 locks, plus toilets and even showers, are proof of how the state-owned canal company has dedicated time to making life as easy as possible for those on two wheels.
The canal and cycle path are split into two parts, totalling 125 miles (200km) of trails. The western section runs from Sjötorp, on the banks of Lake Vänern, to Tåtorp, on Lake Viken. From there, ships pass through Lakes Viken and Vättern, before entering the eastern canal at Motala, where it heads to Mem and on to the Baltic Sea and Stockholm. The cycle path swings inland at Tåtorp and cleaves close to Lake Viken, before pausing at Karlsborg, from where cyclists can sail to Motala to continue their ride (packages available or private boats can be booked in advance). I am riding the western section, covering 100km over three days.
The canal was the brainchild of Swedish naval officer Baltzar von Platen, who turned to Scottish canal pioneer Thomas Telford for assistance. Its construction took 20 years of hard manual labour, connecting the North Sea with the Baltic and boosting industry in west Sweden in the process. Having closed to industrial traffic in 1969, today it is a haven for walkers and cyclists, with three million visitors a year heading here for a dose of glorious nature. My bike and panniers come courtesy of Sustainable Stella, a local cycle hire company. It can book hotels on behalf of visitors, but it also offers simple bike hire, with hostels, hotels and campsites easily booked independently.
As we set off, the peaceful countryside looks resplendent in the summer sun. Stands of oak and birch line the towpath, cowslip and foxgloves lending the scene a cheery brightness as we pedal against the strong easterly breeze. “The here and now, this is what the canal is all about for me,” says Hessle. “You just can’t go quickly. People arrive wanting to rush and leave completely relaxed after a few days. It’s lovely to see it happen.”
Originally from Switzerland, but having
When my partner and I travel together, we usually opt for city breaks.
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