From my home in London, England, I write and speak for Lonely Planet about travel and trains across Europe. This sleeper train journey combines my favorite things: railways through delightful parts of Europe, new adventures and a return to the chaotic excitement of Istanbul and Bulgaria's chilled capital, Sofia.
For those prepared to seek it out, the Istanbul-Sofia Express (İstanbul-Sofya Ekspresi in Turkish) offers unforgettable cross-border adventure – think of a comfortable environment, late-night passport checks and stops at remote-feeling towns. This train departs from one of the world’s great cities into European Türkiye, threading across fortress-like frontiers into Bulgaria and crossing mountain passes before arriving in underrated and very affordable Sofia. A night in the Yatakli Vagon (sleeping car) delivers as a stand-alone journey, an add-on to a city break or a celebratory post-pandemic ramble across continents.
While sleeper compartments on the train are pre-stocked with a few candy bars, pretzel sticks and small cartons of water, there is no catering on the train or at Halkali station, so eat before you leave. You’ll have endless choices for a sustaining dinner in Istanbul, including traditional Turkish staples and fish dishes for €20-30 Euro (US$21-31) (including drinks). Istanbul is also packed with places to buy tasty pastries, baklava and other supplies you may need.
A coffee and freshly baked banitsa (traditional Bulgarian pastry cheese pie) on arrival at Sofia station will cost €3 (US$3.10), or more if you head for into the city to a well-known outlet like Hlebar (ХлеБар).
A bed in a four-berth compartment costs €36 (US$37), with a bed in a two-berth sleeper running you €41 (US$42). If you’d like the whole sleeper berth to yourself the cost is €75 (US$78) when booked at Sirkeci station in Istanbul. If you book through DiscoverByRail, expect to pay around €115 (US$119) – which includes the peace of mind of a guaranteed bed in advance. Tickets are delivered to your hotel in Istanbul.
With the prepaid Istanbulkart travel card, the regular fare of €1 (US$1.03) from any station in the city to Halkali is reduced by 40%. A single fare of €0.80 (US$0.82) on the Sofia metro will get you from Central Station to the key interchange of Serdica, the airport or anywhere else on the network.
A mid-range hotel in range of Istanbul's key sights starts at €120 (US$124). If staying in cheaper Sofia, this will be more like €65 (US$67).
Considering it’s designed as a train to be taken in the dark, while asleep, this route over-delivers on adventure. Leaving Istanbul, you’ll cross ancient landscapes and borders, then take in superb scenery as you chug through Bulgaria’s mountains.
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