Enjoy wine and adventure in South Moravia, Czech Republic
21.07.2023 - 07:57
/ roughguides.com
If you’ve fallen for Prague’s undeniable allure, it might be time to consider branching out to explore some of the Czech Republic’s less-trodden paths. Paths that deliver a richly rewarding blend of fine wine, fascinating folk culture, and exhilarating landscapes that are ripe for outdoor adventuring - both above and beneath the earth. If that sounds like your kind of trip, if you’re looking for a fresh destination that remains tantalizingly under the radar, South Moravia might just be your new favourite place. Read on to discover why.
South Moravia’s magnificent capital, Brno, is a place for all seasons. A city that satisfies history buffs as much as it fires up travellers looking for contemporary cultural thrills. Like its big sister Prague, Brno delivers big when it comes to Baroque beauty and neo-Gothic grandeur. You only have to amble the open-air medieval Cabbage Market (Zelný trh) to feel that magic. And we mean magic, for its cobblestones conceal an underground labyrinth of atmospheric tunnels that reveal an alchemist’s laboratory, an ancient wine cellar and prison, and what’s presented as a “cage for lunatics”.
Labyrinth under the Cabbage Market in Brno, Czech Republic © posztos/Shutterstock
Back above ground, discover Brno’s contemporary answer to Prague’s astronomical clock in the form of its famed monumental bullet-shaped timepiece. Created to commemorate the city's 17th-century victory against a Swedish invasion that saw the Czechs trick the Swedes by turning back the clock, this phallic sculpture does exactly that. Every day at 11am, the clock strikes 12 by playing a tune and releasing a glass ball, which lucky visitors can catch and keep. Brno is nothing if not surprising — a place where the old rubs shoulders with the modern at every turn.
Talking of which, the city is also home to the UNESCO World Heritage Site Villa Tugendhat, an elegant Functionalist architectural marvel created by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe in the 1920s. For more modern history, you can tour the 10-Z atomic bomb shelter. Though its construction began during the days of the Nazi regime, it wasn’t finished until 1959 and touring it today is an immersive, experience.
Being a big student town, Brno’s social scene is lively, with tonnes of cafes and bars to rest up in between discovering the city’s historic delights. After exploring Europe’s second largest ossuary (another unique underground site that contains the remains of 50,000 people), or sinister Špilberk Castle (now home to the Brno City Museum, it once hosted a gruesome torture chamber), you might be need of some light refreshment. Take your pick from cosy traditional pubs, cool café trucks, and stylish wine bars. The city is fast becoming a firm favourite with