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Up in Australia’s steamy Top End, a trio of national parks – Kakadu, Nitmiluk and Litchfield – provide a showreel for some of the nation's most beautiful and elemental landscapes. Subject to cycles of wet and dry seasons, bathed in hues of the deepest reds, greens and blues, these are quintessential Aussie landscapes.
Each offers something different. The smallest of the three, Litchfield National Park is where waterfalls tumble into swimmable waterholes. Kakadu is one of Australia’s largest and most-visited national parks, and located on its southern edge is Nitmiluk National Park, known for its 13 impressive sandstone gorges. All three provide a backdrop to one of the oldest cultures on earth, where stories are told through the millennia-old rock art adorning red-walled escarpments and rivers cut through the cliffs, filling rockholes with water and wildlife, including crocodiles.
Most travelers fly into Darwin. From there they take advantage of the excellent roads that connect the parks; distances can be considerable, though not by Aussie standards. In both Kakadu and Nitmiluk, taking a tour led by a First Nations guide is an essential part of the experience, allowing you to dive deeply into the history of these ancient landscapes.
Although there are variations on the theme, the Northern Territory’s Top End has two main seasons – wet and dry. Which one of these you choose to travel in will have a strong impact on how you experience these special places.
The Dry Season (which locals refer to as “the Dry”) is generally the best time to visit. It usually runs from around April or May through to October. Sometimes the rains hang on into April, but by May or June the skies are generally clear and temperatures relatively mild; the coolest months are June to August. Temperatures begin to rise again in September, and by October (a period known locally as “the build-up”), temperatures and humidity rise, often to uncomfortable levels before the arrival of the rains. The rains are a relief when they come, cooling things down considerably.
Apart from offering the most pleasant conditions for traveling, the Dry also makes it easier to get around. Roads, including most unpaved side roads, remain open and passable, and all businesses catering to tourists are open.
The wet season (or “the Wet”) is more complicated. Besides the rains that can disrupt travel plans, hiking trails and many roads become inundated with water, and many businesses close. In normal years, the first rains usually arrive in November, and continue through until March. It rarely rains all day, every day throughout this period. In November, for example, you’re more likely to encounter an intense tropical thunderstorm for a
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