Whether you choose to live like royalty or scrimp on a shoestring in Vietnam, you’re going to have a memorable trip.
21.07.2023 - 07:59 / roughguides.com
The sky is lightening – it's almost sunrise at Angkor Wat. Squint and you can just about make out a change in the colour of it, a shift from inky-black to blue-black. As the sun rises further it changes more, until it pales enough behind the stonework that you can begin to make out a hulk on the horizon.
You breathe in and get ready to experience one of travel’s true once-in-a-lifetime moments. And then a selfie stick springs up in your eyeline, a bright screen illuminating the darkness. You are jostled from behind and suddenly you can’t see a thing. The stone pinkens in the sunrise ahead but you’re marooned the wrong side of the camera-swayers. You miss the window, those crucial moments, in which Angkor Wat is at its most beautiful.
Yes, there is a wrong way to do Angkor Wat. It’s Cambodia’s most visited tourist attraction with more than two million visitors every year. That said, it is possible to see Angkor Wat without the crowds. Find out how below, but remember: it’s a secret.
Angkor is not just one temple, but a complex of hundreds spread over a vast area, close to the city of Siem Reap. The ruins were once a city home to more people than London. To most visitors though it is three temples at most: Angkor Wat, the Bayon and Ta Prohm.
First up is Angkor Wat, the iconic temple whose name is often interchangeable with the name of the whole complex. You might have seen it many times on film and in pictures, but nothing can prepare you for the beauty of its five perfectly aligned towers, each one like an ear of corn.
Nothing can prepare you for the crowds at the West Gate come sunrise either – something best avoided. Ask your guide to take you to the East Gate instead. Here's you’ll walk through the temple from the opposite side, scuffing along empty stone corridors in the dark. Watch the sunrise from here, lighting up the stones as it climbs, before heading out of the West Gate for coffee and breakfast at one of the stands nearby.
By the time you’re finished, the worst of the sunrise crowds will have gone but it will still be early enough to explore in relative peace.
Sunrise at Angkor Wat without the crowds © Boule/Shutterstock
The Bayon, with its pyramid covered in hundreds of half-smiling faces, is busy with visitors almost all day long. It seems to magnetically pull the very worst of the shuffling crowds to its giant stone terraces.
Fortunately, most visitors appreciate a good long lunch. Between about twelve and two in the afternoon you may be able to get the fascinating faces to yourself for a minute or two. Don’t forget your sun cream and a hat – there’s very little shade.
Ta Prohm, which featured in Tomb Raider, is a contrast – its shady jungle-cloaked ruins are most popular during the hottest part
Whether you choose to live like royalty or scrimp on a shoestring in Vietnam, you’re going to have a memorable trip.
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