I moved to a tiny ski town in Japan. I make $8 an hour, but life is cheap so I'm saving for my future travels.
07.02.2025 - 12:45
/ insider.com
This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Vitus Stenhøj Schiøtz, 23, a Danish traveler who got a working holiday visa to live in Japan. He moved to Japan in late 2024 and works as a chef in a restaurant in Nozawaonsen, a small town northwest of Tokyo . It's been edited for length and clarity.
I'd always dreamed of seeing different places. Last summer, I came across a surf camp in Portugal and fell in love with traveling while you work.
Knowing the surf season would end, I started looking for somewhere else to go. I visited Japan and traveled for three weeks.
Kyoto was my favorite, and I felt very welcome there, but Tokyo felt a bit overwhelming. I tried to visit areas I thought would be less busy, but it's jam-packed everywhere. Areas like the crossing in Shibuya were too much for me. I got almost panicky.
It's not necessarily the locals' fault, but I felt out of place. People would say "Welcome," but not in the sense that they actually wanted to have anything to do with me.
As a foreigner solo traveling, I felt separated, and in a sense, I felt I was wrong for being there.
Still, I enjoyed Japan. I really love the culture, the people, and the way of life. In September, I started researching how a Danish guy like me could stay longer, and that's when I came across a working holiday visa.
I'd heard Japan has some of the best snow in the world, and I also wanted to work a ski season, so I researched smaller towns that get a lot of snow. Hokkaido was in the running, but then I heard about Nozawaonsen from TikTok.
I spoke to people who had been, and they said it was the most lovely town ever. I was sold.
I came back to Japan in November after getting a job as a chef at Tanuki, a restaurant in Nozawaonsen. It's owned by a big corporation that has multiple restaurants and lodges. There are some Japanese workers but it's mostly foreigners.
My girlfriend came with me and found a job as a housekeeper.
Nozawaonsen is about 3.5 hours from Tokyo. You travel north by train and then take a bus into the mountains.
Going out of this huge city, all of a sudden, you see mountains around you and these valleys with autumn colors and leaves.
It's a little traditional village with two supermarkets and a convenience store. It's a very close-knit community.
Ski culture is also different in places like Switzerland, France, or Austria, where you have those huge parties that start in the middle of the day.
Here, it's a little more controlled. You ski in the day, have lunch, and then go to the "onsen," or public bath, in the evening.
I'm still very much a tourist, but I feel very welcome. People are very nice and greet me and say "Ohayou gozaimasu" when I walk by.
There's a misconception that travel has to be