If You Hanker For Retro Food In New York’s Hip Neighborhood, Try Partridge

27.11.2023 - 18:55 / forbes.com / queen Mary

If you ever fantasized about sailing on the original Queen Mary, and partake of the food from another era…well, you can, sort of, return to those meals of yesteryear.

In the very hip area of Manhattan known as the East Village, a restaurant called the Partridge has opened in the Standard, a hotel on Cooper Square.

The mission of Partridge is to “transport guests into a state of sparkling nostalgia.”

And this it does, starting with the look of the place: glistening silver tinsel flutters down from the ceiling. It is a counterpoint to all the Christmas lights seen from the many windows, along with the more prosaic lights emanating from all those big New York City buildings.

The young, friendly staff welcomes Millennials and those who think like Millennials.

The menu is filled with fun comfort food. Why, you can even get Ritz crackers for a warm crab dip. We opted for the Gruyere and Emmental fondue as an appetizer. It came with an assortment of veggies, pickles and cubes of sourdough bread. And it was more than enough for three, with plenty left over.

The Christmastime cheer began with the Snowball Colada, a drink concocted by a wizard that includes spiced rum, cacao, and nutmeg. They also serve, not surprisingly, a Partridge in a Pear Tree, with its tequila, apple, and, of course, pear among its ingredients.

All this comes in a lively yet pleasant setting in which, it seems, the idea is to have fun while eating. It is a “pop-up” restaurant, which means that it has a limited life. The room will be transformed again into a different type dining area.

For now, though, it is heady with the Christmas spirit and is a perfect spot for those attending the nearby Public Theater on Lafayette Street. It is open from 5 P.M. to midnight, Wednesday to Sunday.

Just walking in is a hoot. You enter the Standard East Village Hotel on Cooper Square and face the front desk. No signs of the restaurant. You ask where the Partridge is.

“Make a right and then a left,” you are told. You walk through a narrow corridor to begin your adventure—and there it is, a closed door with the name “Partridge” affixed. It’s a fun beginning.

So was the fondue, which stayed hot on the table placed atop a heater. It was followed by a crispy and flavorful chicken schnitzel—I could imagine diners on the Queen Mary ordering it. Our side dish was the absolutely delicious Brussels sprouts, roasted and flavorful.

We finished up with a tiramisu. There was also a custard tart laden with raspberries.

But interestingly, we came away with not only memories of a pretty good dinner, but of a terrific New York experience: a booth that was comforting, service that was almost like having your favorite cousin take your order, and food that was tasty as well as