After moving from North Carolina to Okinawa in 2022, my family was overwhelmed but fascinated by our surroundings. One familiar monument made us feel right at home: McDonald's two golden arches.
21.07.2023 - 07:48 / roughguides.com
Along the irregular and indented coastline of Tohoku on Honshu’s far north eastern coast is Sanriku Fukkō (reconstruction) National Park. This is where the mountain range of Kitakami gives way to sprawling wildflower meadows and cliffs crowned with pines.
The park covers over 100,000 hectares of land and sea, with a windswept coastal path called the Michinoku Coastal Trail running in parallel with the Pacific for more than 1,000 km (600 mi) through three of Japan’s prefectures: Aomori, Iwate and Miyagi.
Born from the devastation left by the Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami, Sanriku Fukkō has become a symbol of triumph. It’s an embodiment of the symbiosis (or precariously balanced existence) between nature and man. While the region’s recovery and the resilience of its inhabitants continue to capture global attention, only a small percentage of people travel here from overseas. This makes the Michinoku Coastal Trail, for the most part, gloriously crowd-free.
Beneath the chiselled cliffs on which the trail is etched, you’ll spot small white fishing boats (or sappa boats) carrying tourists. The boats weave their way between colourful kayaks and through ornate rock formations, leaving trails of sea foam in their wake. Against the cobalt blue water, coastal plants quiver in the ocean breeze, their roots perfectly adapted to the bone-white scree slopes.
Kabushima Island, Japan © Ben Weller
Dense forests of Japanese pine and cedar roll into rocky shorelines on wide sand beaches flanked by quiet coastal villages along the mighty Michinoku Coastal Trail. The region has a spectacularly diverse environment and complex coastal topography. Arguably the most defining feature of the park – the Michinoku Coastal Trail meanders the rugged coastline, connecting the city of Hachinohe in the Aomori Prefecture with Soma in Fukushima.
Ironically, the literal translation of Michinoku is ‘the end of the road’ when the trail is anything but absolute. It’s enough to sustain the appetite of even the most adventurous hiker for hours, days, even weeks––with many choosing to camp their way through the curious coastal towns and villages.
Tsukuehama to Kitayamasaki, Sanriku Fukko, Japan © Ben Weller
The Michinoku Coastal Trail has various routes assigned with varying levels of difficulty. The northernmost part of the path, the Hachinohe section, is one of the shortest at 14 km (7 mi). While the section that includes climbing to the summit of Mount Hashikami and runs alongside the eponymous town takes days to complete. Buses or trains link parts of the trail, transporting weary hikers and those short on time. The Kamaishi section for instance covers 68 km and is a route that many choose to hike only partially.
Japan’s four
After moving from North Carolina to Okinawa in 2022, my family was overwhelmed but fascinated by our surroundings. One familiar monument made us feel right at home: McDonald's two golden arches.
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