Savannah's small size doesn’t mean it lacks distinct neighborhoods – each one has its own character and charm that will entice you to linger.
21.07.2023 - 08:04 / roughguides.com
Just over 140 miles to the west of Georgia's capital Tbilisi, Kutaisi is a city in flux, perfect for adventure , food and some exceptional spa time. Rough Guides writer Eleanor Ross explores the city as a base for outdoor activities and shows us the best things to do in Kutaisi.
It's the second power cut of the day, and the whole city quietens. Lights around its banks flick on, blink, shudder, and then die. As a visitor, the blackout is still a novelty. The ceiling fan slows to a gentle waft before stopping, encouraging the city to move outside. Kids kick balls along the cobbled roads lit by the light of smartphones and men meet in the streets to smoke, furiously, before suddenly, the lights flash back on and like moths, people are drawn back inside.
Kutaisi is a world away from Tbilisi's steak houses, hipster-style Rooms Hotel, or neighbourhood cafes selling turmeric lattes; on my first day there I was treated to a display of the Georgian army's favourite tanks in the main square. You go to Kutaisi not for the buzzing cosmopolitanism synonymous with the capital, but as a base for exploring some of Georgia's best outdoor activities. Plus, it's the easiest and cheapest place to fly to from the UK thanks to a new direct route launched by Wizz Air earlier this year.
Georgia's wild-looking monasteries and cathedrals are often found in hard-to-reach locations on the side of mountains. But Kutaisi has its very own gem, in the form of Bagrati Cathedral, an 11th-century cathedral set back from the wide river on top of Ukimerioni Hill. Cross the Jachvis Khidi (Chain Bridge) and ready your thighs to hike up the cobbled streets for a great view from the top. Steal a glimpse of Kutaisi's newest structures: in 2012, it was decreed that the Georgian government would move its departments away from Tbilisi to Kutaisi in an effort to decentralise power, so a ring of striking modern buildings are starting to spring up around the city.
Stop off at Kutaisi's covered market on the way back into town to pick up some pre-hike picnic snacks. Food is one of Georgia's biggest draws, and Kutaisi's market is worth a rummage. Plump ripe tomatoes, churchkhela – sweet 'sausages' made of nuts and apple juice toffee, and sackfuls of cherries and spices, make this a perfect place to find fresh produce. For a «ready-made» option, dig into circles of cheesy khachapuri bread, or dunk lavash into deep dishes of walnut-y, creamy satsivi chicken at restaurant Palaty, where you can eat enough food to consider hibernating for less than a tenner.
Bagrati Cathedral in Kutaisi © kavalenkava / Shutterstock
Georgia's cities are special, but the outdoor scenery is some of the most beautiful in the Caucasus. You can take a trip to some of the country's
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