In the same drawer where I keep my travel adapters and portable charger, I have a foreign currency graveyard of sorts. A $5 bill from New Zealand. A £10 note from Scotland. Dozens of Canadian loonies and toonies.
19.07.2023 - 10:01 / lonelyplanet.com
Paula Hotti explains how a train journey through Uzbekistan offers a wonderful way to discover the ancient Silk Road.
As I sit in the refreshingly cool Urgench railway station, ready to start my Silk Road train journey in Uzbekistan, a woman holding a sweeping brush approaches. Despite the language barrier, her purpose is clear: to check my ticket and ensure I board the correct train.
My dream train journey is about to start.
Before my previous visit to Uzbekistan last November, I hadn’t stepped into an airplane in almost six years – a choice that wasn’t the easiest route for a travel writer, financially, but one that turned out to be highly mentally rewarding. Not only because I felt I was doing my part to prevent further damage to the planet, but also because I relished the satisfactory feeling that comes when overcoming the challenges of overland journeys.
Yet as pandemic restrictions eased up, I wanted to ease up on myself, too: so when an opportunity arose to fly to Uzbekistan, I took it. Though I hadn’t visited before, I had dreamed of its Silk Road cities often. And as I stood in Samarkand’s Registan, I vowed to return – even if it required another trip on an airplane.
Fast-forward seven months, and I find myself sitting in that Urgench train station, ready to start my train odyssey from ancient Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand to the capital, Tashkent.
The Soviet-era Sharq train waiting at Urgench is a retro sight indeed. As the steps are high, a conductor helps passengers on and off the train. I find my seat among bunk beds, then sit back and let the verdant scenery roll by. I think of times of yore, when this historic route was frequented by camels carrying silk, spices and other treasures.
Beyond its mood-setting
In the same drawer where I keep my travel adapters and portable charger, I have a foreign currency graveyard of sorts. A $5 bill from New Zealand. A £10 note from Scotland. Dozens of Canadian loonies and toonies.
Bolivia’s tourism reputation is generally as a rugged backpacker destination with a few otherworldly gems for more sophisticated travelers—namely the Uyuni Salt Flats and La Paz’s buzzy culinary scene. But as my kids and I recently discovered on a multi-city road trip in the western part of the country, Bolivia has a diversity of landscapes (caves, deserts, and meteor-crash sites), distinct urban centers (silver mining towns and white-washed World Heritage cities), and colorful boutique hotels.
For at least two millennia, Uzbekistan has been the setting for some of Asia’s most important road trips, following the network of Silk Roads that once formed the major highway between east and west.
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If you feel like flights are running behind more often than before, you’re not wrong. The Bureau of Transportation Statistics—an agency that keeps detailed records of all U.S. domestic flights—reports that 21.6 percent of flights in 2023 (through April) were delayed. That’s the highest level since 2014. The criterion for a “delay,” if you were wondering, is if a flight arrives or departs 15 minutes or more after the scheduled time.