My Favorite Glendalough Airbnb: A Storybook Cottage in Ireland's Glacial Valley

11.11.2024 - 19:03 / cntraveler.com

Growing up in a large Irish Catholic family, I’ve heard for years about the beauty of Ireland and of the places that you simply have to visit—Dublin (with a stop at the Guinness brewery, naturally), Cork, Galway, the Cliffs of Moher. When I spoke to an Irish friend in New York City, he mentioned a place I’d never heard of: Glendalough. Less than 90 minutes southwest of Dublin, the glacial valley in County Wicklow is famous not just for its stunning natural landscape, but also for the remains of a sixth-century settlement founded by St. Kevin of Glendalough.

Once I arrived in the area, I opted for an Airbnb over a hotel because I had visions of those cozy Irish cottages, with their bone-white exteriors and thatch roofs, dotted throughout the emerald green landscape—the prototypical storybook cottage. And I was in luck: My search brought me to An Nead, or The Nest, situated just down the road from the Glendalough visitor center.

The only way to get there was by car. While it was stressful navigating the winding roads, the drive was beautiful: The trees were starting to turn golden against the green of the Scotch pines. The directions from the host were precise, thanks to an “eircode,” the Irish postal code system launched in 2015, which I was able to enter into Google Maps to get the exact location.

The Nest was as charming as I’d hoped: It was located on one end of a rambling cottage of characteristic whitewashed stone. While the listing is classified as a private room, it was really a private residence with its own entrance and kitchenette. In fact, I never came across anyone while there.

The bone-white exterior of the cottage

The view from the cottage windows

As I stepped inside, it felt like I was entering another time. I was greeted first by the rustic, low-ceilinged kitchenette that featured a raw-edge wood counter and an oblong sink made of mottled stone. There was a step up to the large main space, which included a sitting area with a comfy sofa and an electric fireplace, and a small dining area with a table set for two. At the front of the house, light streams in through the bay window (from which you can see the Wicklow Mountains).

The inside is clean and well-appointed. The white stone walls and high ceilings gave it a bright, airy quality, but the live-edge wood accents throughout, the lush upholstery, and the variety of indoor plants made the space cozy. Despite its historic appearance, the appliances—temperature controls, mini fridge, microwave, electric kettle, TV—were all modern. A spiral staircase led to the loft, where the bed and bathroom were. A backdoor on the second floor opened to an outdoor sitting area and the path to the covered hot tub.

It rained my first night there, but