Paris’ 18th arrondissement: a Lonely Planet guide

12.12.2024 - 11:51 / lonelyplanet.com

Dec 11, 2024 • 8 min read

From peasants tending village vineyards to starving artists and a thriving red-light district to gentrifiers with puppies: Montmartre and the rest of Paris’ 18th arrondissement have changed dramatically in the past 100+ years.

The Sacré-Coeur basilica and Amélie Poulain’s greengrocer shop are today the main tourist draws of the area – yet this northern quarter of Paris has much to offer beyond the crowds of the Place du Tertre.

Between the Place de Clichy and the Joules Joffrin metro station, you’ll find an array of bourgeois-bohème delights, with inviting independent boutiques, cafes, bars and bookshops peopled by stylish young Parisians sprinkled throughout the streets. In the summer, expect to see busy terrasses filled with tiny tables covered in wine glasses; come winter, you’ll catch glimpses of cozy tête-à-têtes through the windows of dimly lit restaurants.  

Once you reach the areas around the Château Rouge and Marcadet–Poissoiniers stations, you’re in an area called the Goutte-d’Or (Golden Drop) – also known by Parisians as Little Africa. In this part of the 18th, you’ll find an incredible collection of West African wax-cloth shops, tailors, grocers selling regional products and restaurants. You’ll also find a range of businesses hailing from the Maghreb, as the French call the Mediterranean region encompassing Algeria, Tunisia and Morocco.

In other words, a visit to the vibrant, diverse 18th will offer you a taste of true vie parisienne. 

From Charles de Gaulle airport, take the RER B to Gare du Nord and then walk north to the 18th. If you’re coming from Paris Orly, metro line 14 and connect to lines 4 or 12. 

Once you’ve arrived, walking is by far the best way to experience this neighborhood. As in almost all of Paris, the district is compact and easy to navigate.

The 18th has a familiar mix of upmarket and more-basic accommodation. Although many hotels will look similar online, it is worth being selective about the closest metro station, as some carry a higher risk of street harassment, particularly for women; pickpocketing; and encounters with drug users. We recommend picking a place away from the streets around Barbès–Rochechouart, Château Rouge, Marx Dormoy and Marcadet–Poissonniers stations. 

Hostel/hotel Village Montmartre offers clean, bright rooms alongside a tiny terrasse and indoor social areas. But don’t expect much privacy in the dorms. 

Enjoy a comfortable, modern stay just over the hill in the small yet well-appointed rooms of Hotel Juliette, on quiet Rue Ramey.

The Mom’Art Hotel is beautifully decorated, its interiors inspired by the 18th’s artistic legacy, and located within 400m (1312ft) of Sacré-Coeur. 

Two gems are hidden in the streets behind Sacré-Coeur.