Places That Changed Us: Portugal

08.01.2025 - 10:36 / matadornetwork.com

This is part of the “Places That Changed Us” series, a compilation of 20 trips that have had a lasting impact on the Matador Network team. To see the other 19 places, click here.

It was very late at night when my now-wife Caro and I arrived in Lisbon in 2020. It was our first international trip together, and also our first time in Europe. The airport taxi dropped us on a quiet street in the heart of the Chiado neighborhood, right outside the sealed doors of our hotel. After 15 minutes of knocking and dialing the hotel’s number, a sleepy staff member finally appeared, explaining in broken Spanish that the night entrance was just around the corner. Palacio das Especiairas, our home for the night, was an astounding old manor that felt like a palace. We were overflowing with excitement. Even the sight of a giant cockroach during the impromptu late-night tour led by our groggy host couldn’t shake the feeling.

Fortunately, that rough start didn’t set the tone for the rest of our trip. If anything, Portugal seemed to reward us with moments of pure travel luck that became some of our fondest memories. We were upgraded, nearly for free, to a castle tower in the medieval town of Óbidos; stumbled upon what is still one of our favorite restaurants, Bota & Bira, while roaming the streets of Porto; marveled at gigantic waves in Nazaré; and took a wrong tour that led us to the stunning Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra. But luck wasn’t all that defined our adventure. With every tram we took and every variety of cod we tried, I started to realize I’d found my perfect travel partner.

We spent 10 days on our Portugal adventure, visiting Lisbon, Óbidos, Nazaré, Coimbra, Porto, and Sintra. I wouldn’t change a bit of our original itinerary, but if given the chance, I’d spend a few extra days in Porto, a city that embodies everything I came to love about Portugal: its ancient cityscapes and historic landmarks, its vibrant wine and food scene, its walls of intricate tilework, and the warmth of its people.

Looking back, Portugal felt like the beginning of something lasting. Each day revealed places we wanted to share and moments we wanted to savor together. By the end, I knew I could picture us traveling anywhere, embracing each experience as a team.