Recollections of a Scottish monastery

All travel is by definition quixotic — the most seasoned globetrotters can be led on wild goose chases, deceived, and/or just plain make huge mistakes all by themselves about what's around that next corner. Trekking up to the Scottish highlands to look for "Nessie," aka, the Loch Ness "monster," allegedly "sighted" — perhaps even several times — a half-century ago in the Highlands' breathtakingly gorgeous 23-mile-long freshwater lake just south of Inverness, is an epic, decades-long wild goose chase.

I joined the Royal Marines at 16, where I enrolled into the British Commandos, the longest, hardest infantry training in the world. I spent seven months learning skills including survival, orienteering and signalling before going on to become one of the youngest Elite Commando Reconnaissance Snipers in the UK armed forces, serving in destinations from Northern Ireland to the Middle East. This career path taught me how to survive in some of the world’s most extreme environments. I think that’s probably what set me off on my path of adventure.

The news came in a text—a link to an article announcing that “Scotland’s Leopard Man” had died. I blinked. I paused. And then I remembered the hermit who wanted cookies, and how my encounter with him 20 years earlier taught me one of the most important travel lessons I’ve ever learned.

The well-trodden western coast of the northern Scottish Highlands is a common road trip destination for visitors to the United Kingdom. But to escape the crowds flocking to the Isle of Skye, head to the east and north, where far fewer visitors venture and you can actually enjoy a bit of peace and quiet at the top of Britain. These five spots along the North Coast 500 route will make for an unforgettable road trip, that can be easily extended even further west should you want to continue the journey. You may even have the winding roads to yourself along the way, except for the occasional flock of sheep crossing the road.

The massive red sandstone St Magnus Cathedral  looms over Kirkwall, the capital of the Orkney Islands. Inside lie the bones of Magnus Erlendsson, the Viking Earl of Orkney who, in the early 12th Century, was murdered on the island of Egilsay on the orders of his cousin, a rival chieftain named Haakon.

Wild landscapes and deserted beaches. Fine food and outdoor adventure. Deer, dolphins and mythical monsters. As Rough Guides contributor Keith Drew discovered, the Scottish Highlands have all the ingredients for a family holiday to remember. Read on to discover his top things to do in the Highlands. You might also want to discover the most beautiful places in Scotland, as voted by Rough Guides readers.

If asked to guess, how many islands would you say there are in Scotland? A few dozen perhaps, or a couple of hundred? Would you raise an eyebrow if we told you it’s actually more than 700? And that Scotland has more than 10% of Europe’s entire coastline? That’s a lot of islands to explore – and a whole lot of ferry journeys. So, which ones are worth crossing the seas to see? Here’s our guide to the finest Scottish islands.

There are two very different streams down in Dumfries & Galloway, the region that makes up Scotland’s southwest corner. First, with the region sitting on the shoulder of the English Lake District, there is – inevitably – a stream of cross-border traffic plying the A74.

With extra long days and scenery that reveals itself in a palette of soft blues, greens and browns, summer is the best time to explore the spectacular Scottish Highlands. Driving along the Highland's winding lanes will reveal unexpected views, quaint villages and of course, country pubs.

There’s nowhere quite like Scotland. This epic land of mighty mountains, plunging glens and surging rivers offers a sweep of experiences that you just cannot find anywhere else.

Landscapes of wild and enigmatic beauty, imbued with a sense of myth and ancient history. Dense forests and forbidding mountains, lonely lochs and rivers at almost every turn – and craggy coastlines revealing stunning beaches to rival any in the Caribbean. An unparalleled playground for outdoorsy types, opportunities for adventures are endless. The Scottish Highlands and islands may be officially part of Britain, but they are a world apart.