San Francisco’s Filipino Food Legacy Is Over a Century-Old—and Still Evolving
04.03.2025 - 11:51
/ cntraveler.com
In a new series, Place at the Table, we look at diasporic enclaves around the world through their cuisines—and the people who, in trying to recreate a taste of home, have forged exciting food scenes that invite others in.
When you enter San Francisco’s Mint Mall—just one block south of trolley-lined Market Street, where international tourists are continuously afoot, in the SOMA (South of Market) district—you might wonder if you took a wrong turn. Though you wouldn’t guess from its near-vacancy, Mint Mall was once home to one of the city’s most vibrant congregation of Filipino businesses, including a Pinoy bookstore, theater, and salon. But after being forcefully displaced by mass evictions in 2000, there are virtually no traces of Mint Mall's Tagalog-rich past. Only one of those fixtures remains: JT Restaurant.
Formerly New Pilipinas, this humble eatery has been a mainstay since 1994. A de facto time machine, JT Restaurant is a bastion of no-frills national dishes. Inside, a clutter of tropical greenery flourishes beside faded, souvenir portraits of the Philippines. Cases of imported ingredients—most prominently, Nilo Soursop, a popular Guanabana juice—teeter in stacks beside signs that advertise shipping services to Manila. Meanwhile, grandmotherly portions of pork sinigang (tamarind broth), kare-kare (oxtail in peanut butter sauce), dinuguan (pork blood), lumpia (fried spring rolls) and palabok (rice noodles) beckon longtime and new patrons alike.
What the setting lacks in formal presentation, it more than compensates for in soulful comfort. To order at the counter, you simply point to the desired menu item with your finger (a fast-food method known in the Philippines as “turo-turo,” which translates to “point-point”). The spirited owner and chef, Tess Diaz-Guzman, then jumps into action by heaping rice onto your plate and surrounding it with bowls of vinegary meats and savory stews to be poured atop the fluffy white grains. The whole experience feels jarringly out of place amid San Francisco’s whirlwind of self-driving Waymo vehicles and OpenAI’s nearby headquarters. And yet the contrast adds to JT Restaurant’s distinctly generational, unapologetically Pinoy vibes, an anchor in the ever-changing city—and SOMA in particular, which has been experiencing a revival since it was designated as SOMA Pilipinas, the city’s Filipino Cultural Heritage District in 2016.
The history of San Francisco's Filipino community dates back to the turn of the 20th century, when early waves of immigrants followed work opportunities to the States. From the 1920's to the 1970's, the downtown strip along Kearny Street where thousands of Filipinos lived was even known as “Manilatown”. In the 1970s, though, the area was razed