Germany is a traveler’s dream. The birthplace of the Autobahn boasts one of the most extensive, reliable and well-integrated transport networks in the world.
20.07.2023 - 13:21 / wanderlust.co.uk
Encircled by the Trave River, the island-set city of Lübeck is one of Germany’s most charming towns – a cluster of centuries-old Gothic redbricks, dreamy spires and tight-packed alleys rich in medieval character.
An important port on the Baltic coast, Lübeck rose to prominence from the 12th century due to the boom of its trade organisations; it was dubbed the ‘Queen of the Hanseatic League’, becoming a major player in the powerful confederation of merchants that dominated commercial activity in northern Europe in the Middle Ages. One key commodity was salt, highly valued at the time for preserving food. This ‘white gold’ was mined at nearby Lüneburg and transported along the Old Salt Route to Lübeck, from where it was shipped to distant ports.
Lübeck developed a sweet tooth, too. The city lays claim to producing the world’s best marzipan – some even say it was invented here, in 1407, when the grain stores ran empty and the city’s bakers had to make bread with almonds. Maybe, maybe not, but locals have embraced the nutty paste and it has become a speciality.
Evidence of all this history can still be seen today, from the old riverside warehouses to the sweet-scented confectioners. Allied bombs did do some damage – air raids in 1942 saw around one-fifth of the Old Town destroyed, including the cathedral (now reconstructed). But plans to raze the city in 1944 were aborted, leaving the basic structure of the old centre largely intact. Indeed, in 1987 Lübeck became the first town in northern Europe to be added to UNESCO’s World Heritage list.
Among Lübeck’s enduring monuments is the Holsten Gate (Holstentor), one of its two surviving medieval gateways. Comprising twin turreted towers bestride a fine arched passageway, the Holstentor has become the icon of the city – and the best place to begin a fascinating city break…
Walk between the brick towers of the Holstentor, an impressive entrance to Lübeck’s beautiful Alstadt. Look right: on the banks of the Trave you’ll see the Salzspeicher, a row of handsome old salt warehouses.
Explore the old town, including the market square. On one side is the 13th-century Rathaus, the country’s oldest town hall. Next door is Café Niederegger, the spiritual home of marzipan – as well as serving it, there’s a Marzipan Museum upstairs.
Keep wandering, pausing for lunch at the Schiffergesellschaft (Breite Strasse 2), which has been serving for some 500 years; try a traditional labskaus, a dish of salted meat, potato, herring, egg and beetroot. Finish at Dietrich’s Bar (Untertrave 108) with a Königin der Hanse marzipan-flavoured gin, created for Lübeck’s 875th anniversary in 2018.
Today, meet Lübeck’s three Nobel Prize winners, starting at the Buddenbrookhaus (Mengstrasse 4), an
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