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21.07.2023 - 08:07 / roughguides.com
Sake is quickly replacing craft beer as the cool kid on the drinks scene globally – and a number of breweries have recently opened in the UK, USA and Australia. But the land of the rising sun will always be the true home of this potent, rice-based spirit. Tamara Hinson reports from one of Japan‘s oldest sake breweries.
Outside a low-rise, wooden building in the town of Kawachinagano, huge balls of dried Japanese cedar sway in the breeze. They’re brown now, but a few months ago, their bright green hue was a reminder that sake season was underway. These bristly balls of twigs are Yozo Saijo’s pride and joy.
The region's connection with sake dates back to the 13th century, when a monk started producing the spirit at a nearby temple
Yozo is the chief executive of Amanosake, one of Japan’s most popular – and oldest – sake brands.
Sake Barrels
This month, when rice is harvested, he’ll string up fresh, green balls of cedar. These giant pom-poms are used by producers to represent sake season, which lasts from November until March.
Yozo’s neighbours are proud that their town, on the outskirts of Osaka, is associated with such an historic institution, and similar balls can be spotted all along the street.
“I’d like to see them hanging from every house!” says Yozo.
Amanosake is named after nearby Mount Amano. According to historical documents, the region’s connection with sake dates back to the 13th century, when a monk started producing the spirit at a nearby temple. It was a tumultuous time, with warring clans battling for power, and many temples burned to the ground.
I spot two Kamidanas, Shinto altars, each with tiny saucers of sake left as offerings
The monk produced his sake with even greater fervour, knowing his temple would be spared if it was seen as a centre of sake production. And he was right.
Yozo points to a scroll on the wall of his office. It bears the words of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a fearsome 16th-century warrior. His message reminds the region’s brewers that it’s their duty to continue to produce good sake.
And as much as Yozo loves his job, he certainly sees it as his duty, rather than a choice. His family has produced sake for ten generations.
Today, the brand’s headquarters are tucked inside a wooden building dating back to 1919. I spot two Kamidanas (Shinto altars), each with tiny saucers of sake left as offerings. One is attached to the wall, high above rows of enormous vats. A sign informing me I’m in a wi-fi hotspot is one of the few nods to modernity.
Sake is seeing a huge resurgence amongst young people – although for them it’s seen as a connoisseur’s beverage rather than a cultural one
Enormous cylinders contain the polished, washed and steamed rice. Powdered mould is then sprinkled on top, before
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