A reader asks whether it’s possible to traverse much of Scotland in just one week. Our expert has some thoughts.
21.07.2023 - 07:56 / roughguides.com
Whisky is much more than Scotland's national drink – it’s blended deep into the country’s history and culture. Donna Dailey learns more and discovers the best ways to enjoy a wee dram.
As the Argocat lurches off into the foothills of the Cairngorms, I wrap my scarf tighter against the autumn chill. This rugged eight-wheeler, a cross between an ATV and a jeep, is hauling us through the hidden glens of Speyside on the Glenlivet Hill Trek, following the trail of olden-day whisky smugglers.
Today, whisky is Scotland’s premier product. It’s exported to over 200 countries and worth more than £2.5 billion (US $3.3 billion) annually.
The country has around 120 active distilleries, in fact, and over half of them are here in Speyside. This scenic region straddles the River Spey between the mountains and the Moray Firth, and whisky has been made here for centuries. When the English Parliament imposed excise duty in 1644, the remote hills of Glenlivet became a haven for countless distillers who couldn’t pay and were forced into hiding.
The Argocat chugs to a stop at the Peat Reek Bothy. Inside the small stone hut is a surprisingly tiny copper still, the sort that made hill farmer Robbie McPherson a fortune from illicit distilling in the early 19th century.
“Small stills were easier to hide when you saw the excise men approaching,” explains Charlie Ironside, our guide. “They were easily spotted walking over the open countryside, and neighbours would alert each other.”
Far below us, the chimneys of the Glenlivet distillery bellow clouds of steam into the valley
McPherson would have stored his contraband whisky in small barrels, strapped them to a saddle and smuggled them out on horseback along these same routes. I linger on this thought for a moment before we’re off again, climbing through the purple heather at what seems a dizzying 45-degree angle.
Cosy interior of the Peat Reek Bothy
We reach the summit of Carn Liath and Charlie pulls out a whisky hamper, pouring us a warming dram of The Glenlivet Founder’s Reserve. I hold up the glass and its golden hue is the brightest thing on the cloudy Scottish skyline.
“When whisky smuggling was rife, there were more than 200 illegal stills here,” Charlie tells us as we survey the stunning panorama of surrounding hills and glens. “Barrels of whisky were hidden in the heather and never found again.”
Scotland’s distilleries produce a mind-boggling array of whiskies, from rare single malts to popular blends
Far below us, the chimneys of the Glenlivet distillery bellow clouds of steam into the valley. Its founder, George Smith, was the first bootlegger to come in from the cold, establishing Scotland’s first licensed distillery here in 1824.
Although he incurred the wrath of the whisky
A reader asks whether it’s possible to traverse much of Scotland in just one week. Our expert has some thoughts.
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