Structured, Smooth Wines From The Bicoastal Cabardès Region Of France

25.02.2024 - 11:29 / forbes.com

A wine appellation is basically a chunk of geography that includes specific rules for making wine. Those who follow these rules can print the name of that appellation on their bottle labels—theoretically increasing sales. Or, paradoxically, sometimes not.

Vineyards located in the quarter-century old Cabardès appellation in southern France [pronounced cab-R-des] cover a region about one and a half times the size of Central Park in New York, within a geographical area ten times that size. Located an hour drive southeast of the city of Toulouse between the walled city of Carcassonne and the Black Mountains—Montagne Noir—local geography here includes a meld of landscapes from two sides of the country—Mediterranean (rocky scrub) and Atlantic (forests and meadows). A hot and sunny Mediterranean climate dominates, but cold dry winds known as cers originating from the Atlantic Ocean also influence grape growth.

Cabardès appellation rules apply to red and rosé wines. They must include grapes from the western, Atlantic side of France , as well as grapes from the eastern, Mediterranean side. Forty percent of grapes must originate from one, or a blend of the Atlantic selection (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot), and forty percent must come from one, or a blend of the Mediterranean choice (Grenache, Syrah). Additionally, juice from Cinsault, Cot (Malbec) and Fer grapes can be added.

According to Wendy Gedney in her book The Wines of Languedoc-Roussilon, the Cabardès region encompasses a varied landscape that transforms from sloping hills—similar to those of the adjacent Minervois wine appellation to the east—to rugged slopes at the foot of the Montagne Noir peaks.

Most soils here are known as argilo-calcaire, or clay limestone, though higher elevations also include slate and gneiss. High density planting results in low yields of grapes with concentrated flavors.

Cabardès red wines include a distinct taste—generally a hefty but creamy body. Cabernet Sauvignon can provide structure, Syrah gives dark flavored richness, Merlot donates roundness and Grenache can add juicy-fruity suppleness and spice. However, be wary of expectations—flavors differ from wines just the east (such as within the Minervois appellation) and may not be what you expect from this Languedoc-Roussillon region.

Although the appellation is young, Cabardès wines have a long history within France.

Romans began planting grapes here in the century before the Christian era.

The word Cabardès derives from the term Cabaret. This is because in the 11^th century the lords of Cabaret built castles above the town of Lastours. These leaders were adherents of Catharism—a form of Christianity practiced by vegetarian teetotaler adherents who rejected