Salzburg is like a film set. Reclining at the foot of wooded cliffs on the banks of a turquoise river, its baroque-gone-mad Altstadt wings you through a millennium of history, with its jewel box of churches, abbeys, and domes. Everywhere you go, you are forced to look up in wonder: at the whopping hilltop fortress; at lavishly gilded palaces and concert halls where Mozart once performed; at mountains peeking up on the horizon where Maria (Julie Andrews) had her twirling The Sound of Music debut.
You can pinch yourself, but it’s all fabulously real. Just don’t expect to have these streets to yourself – the word’s out that Salzburg has got it all going on. That said, there are ways to find peace in this city – whether it’s listening to Gregorian chorales at sunrise or a gentle cable car ride up a mountain where the Alps open up like a pop-up book. Read on for our top things to do in Salzburg.
As dawn breaks over the Alps, hoof it up the steep steps of the Nonnbergstiege to reach Stift Nonnberg by 6:45am to hear the hairs-on-end sound of nuns chanting Gregorian chorales at one of Europe’s oldest working abbeys. Founded by St Rupert, patron saint of Salzburg way back in 715 CE, the Benedictine abbey is off-limits apart from its rib-vaulted church, where you can glimpse Romanesque frescoes.
If it feels like déjà-vu up here, it’s no surprise: you probably have seen nuns waltzing to mass at this abbey before in The Sound of Music. And if you’re not an early riser, don’t worry, as you can hear their uplifting song again at 5:15pm on weekdays, 5pm on Saturdays, and 4:30pm on Sundays.
Short but spectacular, the walk from Nonnberg to Festung Hohensalzburg along the Hohe Weg (Festungsgasse) lifts spirits instantly and gives a great overview of the city, with dress-circle views over the rooftops, spires, and domes of the baroque Altstadt to the forested mountains beyond. Walking up here, far above the hum of the city and toll of church bells, is really quite something. Round out your walk with a romp around the ramparts, lavish staterooms, and museums at the 900-year-old clifftop fortress.
It’s Oktoberfest 365 days a year at the Augustiner Bräustübl, an offshoot of the Munich-run brewery that is Germany’s oldest, dating to 1328. With its vaulted taverns and vast, 1400-seat beer garden set up under the shade of chestnut trees, this monk-founded brewery at the foot of Mönchsberg has given Salzburg rollicking good times since 1621. Fill your tankard at the foyer pump and visit the Schmankerlgang (deli stands) for hearty, beer-swigging grub like Stelze (ham hock), pork belly, and pretzels as big as your head. Beers swing from mildly hoppy lagers to amber-hued wheat beers. You’ll find fewer tourists and a more authentic
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