Dec 2, 2024 • 12 min read
13.11.2024 - 18:51 / cntraveler.com
Life in Tahiti for Vaimiti Teiefitu resembles most people's travel daydreams: clear blue skies, palm trees at every turn, and graceful rides on a lavender longboard atop the cerulean waves of the South Pacific. In 2023 she began traveling to host surf retreats, first in Morocco and then Indonesia (she'll be in Sri Lanka in January 2025), but nothing compares to home. When asked for her advice on how to best visit Tahiti, which hosted the Olympic surfing events this past summer, Teiefitu laughs and says, “There's no wrong way to visit Tahiti, except maybe staying in your hotel. That's the biggest mistake you can make.” Below, she shares her favorite places on the island: where to get in the water, refuel after a surf session, and unwind at day's end. Stitch them together for the perfect day (or three) in Tahiti.
When the gods smile on the surf conditions, Teiefitu starts her mornings with a longboard session. She lives on the north side of Tahiti in Māhina, right near Papeno'o. “Papeno'o is the main surf break when it comes to beach breaks, at least from December through April," she says. It's a great black-sand beach for people who want to learn how to surf, and notably, is welcoming of visitors. Plus there are several peaks on the waves here, meaning more people can surf at once (as opposed to on the reef breaks). The main section of Papeno'o, where surf schools take guests, is for beginners. Continue moving to the right (facing the ocean) for intermediate waves and, then, right at the river mouth, expert-level waves.
Vaira'o, another surf spot Teiefitu loves, is a little less accessible. “It's this gem preserved by the locals, and the guys who live right in front of it are the ones who organize the lineup—if they don't feel you, then you're not really welcome. Luckily I get along with them." If you're nice enough, or patient enough for them to leave, you might get a shot, too, but don't bank on it.
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Speaking of surfing that isn't quite for everyone: “I really like Teahupo'o,” she says, of the famous surf break that just hosted the Olympics. “Whenever I go to Teahupo'o, I surf in the morning, and then go on a boat to the wild side.” That wild side, which describes the stretch of southeastern coastline from Teahupo'o to Tautira, can only be accessed by boat; it's the section of Tahiti not reached by the coastal road the circles the rest of the island. Luckily, boat tours offered by locals—including Cindy Drollet (who is the only woman boat guide in the area), are easy to come by. “Teahupo'o has this energy that is really special, and when you go further, it's even stronger, and you almost don't feel like you're in Tahiti, on the main
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