An Australian sailor and his beloved dog, Bella, were recently reunited after surviving two months stranded in the Pacific Ocean.
19.07.2023 - 13:05 / atlasobscura.com
Entering Maru Toledo’s Santina de Covadonga restaurant on a hot, dry day feels like traveling back in time. Visitors who walk up to the gate, dirt crunching under their feet, will likely encounter a dog lazing about and bougainvillea waving gently in the breeze. After passing through the 19th century–style kitchen, filled with dark-red earthenware pottery, old cookbooks, and the smell of smoke, they’ll sit beneath a tin roof and watch as women use pre-Columbian tools to make tostadas raspadas (“scraped” tostadas), grinding corn with a metate and cooking with a traditional firewood stove known as a tecuil. Everything, from the menu to the equipment to the décor, is meant to evoke the historic, nearly-forgotten traditional kitchens of Jalisco.
“We basically cook recipes that are almost extinct, that almost no one prepares anymore,” says Toledo, the restaurant’s head chef and founder.
The restaurant is just one part of Toledo’s mission to uncover the roots of Jalisciense cuisine. Growing up in the Guadalajara, Jalisco’s largest city, she often had questions about food history, but rarely found satisfactory answers. “People didn’t pay attention to traditional food,” she says.
Rafael Hernandez, a Jalisco native and the chair of the department of world languages and literatures at Southern Connecticut State University, agrees. “Most Mexicans imagine that the way they eat is the way pre-Columbian societies ate,” he says. But they “are not even aware that the food we’re eating today is food that was invented in the ’20s.”
Despite being from Jalisco, Hernandez says he was surprised when he came upon Toledo’s cookbooks and research. Compared to states like Puebla and Oaxaca, whose cuisine has received extensive attention, he says
An Australian sailor and his beloved dog, Bella, were recently reunited after surviving two months stranded in the Pacific Ocean.
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