Benjamin Engelbach wrote the chapter on Northern Vietnam for the 17th edition of Lonely Planet’s guide to Vietnam, scheduled for publication in September 2025.
The countryside of Vietnam rewards the curious traveler with beauty and serenity. And in the mountains of the far north, adventure beckons.
Ha Giang province’s famous loop – a 370km (230-mile) road trip that circles through the Dong Van Karst Plateau – takes travelers to mountain passes in the clouds, through ethnic villages and over majestic rivers. (It will also probably be the best thing to happen to your Instagram feed in a while.) While it’s heavily traveled – perhaps too much so in some places – it nonetheless lives up the hype.
But before diving into Ha Giang’s landscapes and cultural treasures, there’s one essential tip to note: if you don’t have a Vietnamese or international motorcycle license, do not plan on driving the loop yourself. Jumping off the plane, renting a bike and getting behind the wheel without a license used to be possible – yet with an increased police presence in Ha Giang your best options are now to join a guided tour (you’ll ride on the back of the motorbike as a passenger) or hire a private car and driver. These safe, all-inclusive tours allow you to focus on taking in the views.
As a longtime resident of Vietnam, I’ve had the pleasure of riding the loop twice. My recommended itinerary separates the loop into four main sections. (The most common loop duration is four days, though some travelers ride it in as few as three days or as many as 10.)
Note what stops and detours you’re interested in – then compare them with your guide’s recommendations. And happy riding.
When to arrive: Most tour operators bring you into Ha Giang on a night bus or van from Hanoi, arriving at about 3am, giving you just a few hours of sleep before the first day of action. If you’re not in a rush, consider arranging transport to arrive in the city a day in advance so you can start the loop adventure rested.
How to get from the airport: Ha Giang is a five-hour bus ride from the closest major airport (Noi Bai International in Hanoi). Few head directly to Ha Giang right after touching down, though. The most common way to get to Ha Giang involves a tour operator–arranged pickup from your accommodation in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. You can also arrange your own bus service through the booking platform 12.go.
Getting around on the loop: Ultimately, there are three ways to travel on the loop: on the back of a motorbike as a passenger, at the controls of your own rental motorbike (if you have the right license) or by hiring a car and driver. While in Ha Giang City itself, it’s easy to get taxis or bike rides through the Grab app.
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