“He’s in here, in the kitchen every night and he’s smiling. He’s so happy to be doing this,” explains one of the managers of Café Carmellini. He is chef Andrew Carmellini, well known around New York the past 15 years for his respected but more casual restaurants Locanda Verde, Lafayette, The Dutch, Carne Mare and Bar Primi. This restaurant, which opened November 1st in the new Fifth Avenue Hotel, marks his return to fine dining with reinterpretations of French and Italian classics and as his most personal restaurant is the first one that bears his name. It’s been packed since opening night and looking around the Gilded Age style dining room with its oversized bronze and seeded glass chandeliers suspended from double height ceilings, plush blue banquettes and sculpted trees in the middle of the floor, the chef isn’t the only one smiling.
The blend of French and Italian derives from the twin lineages of his background: his Tuscan family roots and experiences in esteemed kitchens such as L’Arpège in Paris, San Domenico in Emilia-Romagna and Lespinasse, Le Cirque and Café Boulud in New York. The dualism shows in dishes such as Oysters à la Pomme in which green apple sorbet and horseradish atop briny Maine oysters are meant to reflect the flavors of Normandy and Red Snapper ‘Meunière, a sweet, delicate fish carpaccio enlivened but not overwhelmed by a mixture of lemon, capers and the Australian citrus finger lime that was so delectable that we quickly ordered another after finishing the first.
The choices on the initial courses are so tempting that you might opt to assemble a group of those instead of going for a main course as we did. (Although I was urged to come back and try the Squab en Croute.) An item as seemingly simple as Sardine Toast was an artful blend of tangy sweetness, crunchy and much lighter than usual. Artichoke Florentine presents a perfectly cooked artichoke core and spinach with a sprinkling of brioche and a piquant, slightly creamy sauce. Tender Duck Tortellini was enlivened by Cherry Moscato; a special of Lasagna with Veal Bolognese and white truffles shaved on top was so luscious that it will hopefully become a part of the regular menu at least while white truffles are in season.
The 70 page,1,800 bottle wine list lists everything an aficionado could want with deep concentrations in Italy, France and the U.S. but also with forays into other wine areas in Spain, Greece, Austria and Germany ; even wines by the glass, though, are of exceptional quality. My only quibble is with a selection on the dessert menu that apparently the chef has always wanted to put on a menu even though it isn’t really in sync thematically with the other food: sticky toffee pudding, a personal favorite among
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Let’s face it: most restaurants located in Times Square are usually tourist traps with overpriced, mediocre food, especially “red sauce” Italian joints. Diehard New Yorkers— me among them—typically avoid dining in the area at all costs and gravitate to other hip local spots instead.
“That’s the restaurant I could never get into in Rome,” said the woman walking behind me on Soho’s MacDougal Street to her friend. “Now I can’t get into the one in New York either.” Roscioli, the restaurant in question, a mixed street level trattoria/salumeria and basement level tasting menu dining room has definitely been a tough table to get since its phased opening: the downstairs dining room in July and the A La Carte street level space in October. But for those who persevere (for walk in tables and a few reservations on Resy), lively, authentic, classic dishes will transport them instantly to Rome.
Locals and tourists frequently swarm to the DUMBO area of Brooklyn for some iconic photos of the Manhattan Bridge, as well excellent shopping and cutting edge art. Visitors can now add another reason to stop by. Just steps from the Brooklyn Flea, NINA is a new restaurant that focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients and seeks to create a warm environment where sharing plates add to the fun.
New York City is practically synonymous with New Year’s Eve. The entire world watches and waits for the ball to drop in Times Square, while revelers at the crossroads of the world and across the boroughs celebrate the upcoming New Year. Plenty of restaurants far away from the chaos are also hosting celebrations for festive meals, toasts and a fun ambiance to ring in the 2024. Here’s where to celebrate:
What do you get when you cross two alums of the fine dining pantheon The Modern with the finest Italian seafood, creative cocktails and deep and esoteric wine list all in a gorgeously chic Soho setting? Say hello to Principe, which is fast becoming everyone's new favorite downtown destination.
Chinese tourists won’t be coming back to New York City at their pre-pandemic levels next year. Affordability and limited flights are two issues holding back the rebound, say travel executives.
For most New Yorkers, Times Square is a place to be avoided at all times—especially and unequivocally on New Year’s Eve. The Ball Drop looks fun and exciting when watched from the warmth and privacy of your couch but in real life, it looks like a million people packed between police barricades and squished up against each other in the cold for way too many hours, waiting for a 10-second countdown. And there are no public restrooms.
A New York state court judge dismissed an Airbnb lawsuit against New York City, ruling the city had a right to require host registration and licenses, and that it was reasonable to require that Airbnb — and other platforms — verify that listings have licenses, or face penalties.
Let’s face it: New York is hardly the first city to impose regulations on short-term rentals. Today is the official deadline for hosts to register their listings.