A guide to Osaka's best neighbourhoods — vintage shopping, bar hopping and more

27.09.2023 - 10:17 / nationalgeographic.com

When talking about Osaka, it’s nearly impossible not to mention the culinary culture that’s made the city a destination for food lovers. But to focus solely on Osaka’s famous okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) and takoyaki (battered octopus balls) would do a great disservice to Japan’s third-largest city. It may be a sprawling metropolis but Osaka has the feel of an easygoing European coastal city, with a sense of openness and a slower pace than its big brother, Tokyo. First-time visitors tend to make a beeline for Osaka Castle, browse the food stalls on a walk through Kuromon Ichiba Market and later venture out to Universal Studios on the edge of the city. But another great way to get a true taste of Osaka is to dive into its diverse neighbourhoods. 

Best for: eating out
The Osakan way of eating yourself to ruin is such a large part of local culture that the habit has a name: ‘Osaka no kuidaore’ — loosely translated: ‘Eat the Osaka way until you fall into debt’. The Kuromon Ichiba Market is a popular destination for food-curious visitors, but an equally compelling, less touristy gastronomic quarter is Fukushima, one stop to the west of Osaka Station. The culinary heart of the neighbourhood is Josho New Street, lined with neighbourhood izakayas (informal bars) competing for attention. There are two unmissable spots on this street: Moeyo Mensuke, famous for its duck ramen; and Izumo Unagi, a freshwater eel specialist with a lengthy, delicious menu that slices and dices eel in all its forms. Try its eel skewers or signature unadon — a bowl of rice topped with an omelette roll and grilled eel. If you can stomach the idea of it, the horse-meat tartare and horse katsu are also worth trying. Just west of Fukushima Station is highly rated soba (buckwheat noodles) joint Sobakiri Karani. This unassuming little shop is a specialist in hand-pulled soba and carries a curated selection of local sakes.  

Best for: bars
Osaka has many nightlife hotspots but few neighbourhoods can claim a higher concentration of meticulously crafted cocktails per square metre than Shinsaibashisuji. Mixology and experiential bars take centre stage in this central district, sitting just north of the Dotonbori Canal. Leading the pack is Bible Club Osaka, a testament to the current speakeasy trend. The experience starts with 120-year-old antique stairs imported from California, which lead down to the bar. From the vintage cash register to rustic copper barware, the interior is meticulously designed as a Narnia-like portal that transports patrons to the US in Prohibition times. The menu offers original cocktails as well as classics with a twist; try the BC Penicillin, which contains lemon honey syrup and is infused with a mist of single malt.