Landscapes as green and lovely as everyone says. Literary giants in Dublin; Titanic history in Belfast. A pint and good craic in a traditional pub. The lure of Celtic legends.
21.07.2023 - 08:29 / roughguides.com
Britain is so packed full of historic homes and houses it can be difficult to know where to start. Here's a few of our favourite homes open to the public across the country.
When sitting idly at home, do you ever try to picture who has lived there before you? Dennis Severs did. In fact, his imagination gripped him so powerfully that, when he bought a run-down eighteenth-century house on a narrow, cobbled street in London's East End, he re-created a living image of its Georgian and Victorian pasts, furnished and ornamented in meticulous period detail, and filled it with a cast of fictional characters. He then opened it to guests, inviting them to partake in a unique theatrical experience.
Stepping across the threshold of 18 Folgate St is like passing through a picture-frame into a painting. As your eye readjusts to the candlelit gloom, your nostrils to the burning tallow, and you move through the shadows across the hall's creaking floorboards, it becomes obvious that this is no museum. A dark-clad, slightly sinister gentleman introduces «the game» that's about to unfold: the house's owners, the Jervises, a family of Huguenot master silk-weavers, have departed suddenly, moments before your arrival. You're about to be immersed in their world.
As you explore, the spaces — both temporal and mental — between you and your surroundings seem to dissipate. In the kitchen, a teacake browns in front of the crackling fire; lulled by the warmth, the house cat curls contentedly on a chair. In another room, a Hogarthian tableau — the aftermath of a drinking party — is re-created: the punch bowl is empty, chairs are overturned, tobacco strewn across the table. You're rather sorry you missed it.
Wandering in mesmerized silence, you'll feel as though you're taking part in a story — of which Dennis himself, though long dead, is the narrator. Playful, cryptic notes, artfully left on sideboards and mantelpieces, encourage you to take part in this «adventure of the imagination». And as imagination takes over, you become as much a part of this otherworldly house as the Jervises themselves.
Dennis Severs' House, 18 Folgate St, London E1 dennissevershouse.co.uk.
© chrisw1964/Shutterstock
There aren't many stately homes where «stately» plays second fiddle to «home», but at Chatsworth — ancestral pile of the Dukes of Devonshire, handed down through sixteen generations — family still comes first. Sure, it's an estate on a vast scale, employing hundreds of people and attracting a million paying visitors a year, but there's still a tangible sense of the Cavendish family at home in the grandiose rooms, halls and chambers. You can feel it in the ornate, carved, seventeenth-century chapel, used for family christenings, or in the charming
Landscapes as green and lovely as everyone says. Literary giants in Dublin; Titanic history in Belfast. A pint and good craic in a traditional pub. The lure of Celtic legends.
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