Golden Bay, New Zealand: A serious alternative to Abel Tasman National Park
21.07.2023 - 08:51
/ roughguides.com
At the far north of New Zealand’s South Island, visitors flock to the Nelson Tasman region to hike and kayak in spectacular Abel Tasman National Park. The turquoise waters and sheltered bays of this protected coastline are undeniably beautiful, but increased visitor numbers in New Zealand's smallest national park are putting pressure on infrastructure – particularly along the popular 60-kilometre Abel Tasman Coastal Track. Just beyond Abel Tasman’s northern rocky headland, peaceful Golden Bay sees a fraction of the park’s visitors.
It was here in 1642 that Europeans and Māori first came into contact. Abel Tasman sailed into the bay and cultural misunderstandings on both sides led to violence and the death of four Dutch sailors. Abel Tasman named it “Murderers Bay”, but settlers during the nineteenth-century Gold Rush called it Golden Bay. In 2014, Golden Bay Mohua (Mohua is the original Māori name) was officially adopted.
It’s a naturally sheltered bay, with plenty of sunshine hours. Tracee Neilson from nelsontasman.nz tells me over coffee: «It’s a destination with spirit, soul and quirkiness rather than a place to visit […] Golden Bay is one of Nelson’s, and New Zealand’s, best kept secrets”.
Takaka valley in the Golden Bay Area © Sasapee/Shutterstock
There’s only one road in and out of Golden Bay, and it’s a stunner. State Highway 60 skirts Abel Tasman National Park and traverses Takaka Hill, its steep hairpin turns taking you around 100km west of Nelson, but far from big city life.
The road is dotted with signposted lookouts where short trails lead to spectacular views over the karst limestone landscape, but it’s not until you reach the hill’s 791-metre summit that you catch sight of magnificent Golden Bay.
Just before the summit, a 12km unsealed road leads to Canaan Downs Scenic Reserve, a filming location for The Lord of the Rings (is there anywhere Peter Jackson didn’t go?) and the site of summer festival, Luminate. From the car park, Harwood’s Hole Track leads to a large sinkhole that’s the deepest vertical shaft in New Zealand.
Once you’re into Golden Bay, the road branches east to Pohara and the northern reaches of Abel Tasman National Park, or straight on to Takaka and the quieter town of Collingwood.
Planning your dream trip? Don't miss our guide to the best things to do in New Zealand.
New Zealand's Wainui Falls © steny02/Shutterstock
Mellow Golden Bay has a bit (a lot) of an alternative vibe. Its isolation has fostered a counterculture centred on the hippie enclave of Takaka, plus there are some interesting off-grid satellite communities here too.
It might be laid-back, but there’s plenty of things to do in Golden Bay, including hikes that are more 'proper tramping' than the relatively flat trails