Rio de Janeiro is vast and complex, and its main concrete arteries are an often intimidating cacophony of revving engines and impatient horns.
However, a clean and efficient metro system and pleasingly cheap Uber taxis make Rio pretty straightforward to navigate.
During daylight hours, exploring Rio’s main streets on foot is generally safe, but best avoided at night where possible. If you find yourself on foot at night, stick to the busiest streets. Here’s everything you need to know about getting around Rio de Janeiro.
Rio’s metro system is an excellent way to get around – its three lines are air-conditioned, clean and efficient. Line 1 goes from Ipanema-General Osório to Uruguai in the north zone. Line 2, which partly overlaps line 1, travels from Botafogo to Pavuna (passing Maracanã football stadium en route). Line 3 travels between Ipanema-General Osório and the eastern end of Barra da Tijuca at Jardim Oceânico.
You can purchase a cartão pré-pago (prepaid card) from a kiosk in any metro station using cash (no change given) with a minimum of R$5. You can then recharge the card at any kiosk. Free subway maps are available from most ticket booths.
During Carnaval, the metro operates nonstop from 5am Saturday morning until at least 11pm on Tuesday.
Rio’s BRS (Bus Rapid System) features dedicated public transportation corridors in Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon and Barra. Fares on most buses are around R$3.80.
Every bus has its key destination displayed on the illuminated signboard in front. If you see the bus you want, hail it by sticking your arm straight out (drivers won’t stop unless flagged down).
Rio has many kilometers of bike paths along the beach, around Lagoa and along Parque do Flamengo. The city's public bike-sharing scheme, Bike Rio, features bright-orange bikes found at more than 250 stations.
After registering on the website or the app (Bike Itaú), you can buy a monthly pass (R$36.90) or a two-day pass (R$25.90). The bikes are released via mobile phone or app, and instructions are available in English at the stations.
Many (but not all) stations also have a pay-on-the-spot option for a day pass. After you swipe your credit card, you'll be given a code to use to release any bike. The first 30 minutes won't cost extra; after that it's R$5.90 per hour, though you have an unlimited number of checkouts with a 24-hour day pass (same with the two day and monthly pass).
Rio's new light-rail – the VLT – is part of a massive urban-renewal project helping to revitalize Centro. Launched in 2016, the VLT has 26 stations in Rio, running on two different routes through downtown. For visitors, handy access is at Cinelândia (outside the metro) to Praça Mauá (to the stop labeled Parada dos Museus).
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This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Lauren Juliff, a 35-year-old who's traveled to over 80 countries. The following has been edited for length and clarity.
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