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21.07.2023 - 07:33 / roughguides.com
Rough Guides editor Amy Hopkins shares her tips for what not to miss when travelling along the historic Three Star Road in central Japan
To delve deep into Japan’s ancient culture and traditions, bypass the tourist magnets of Tokyo and Kyoto and head instead for the Three Star Road. This remarkable route connects Matsumoto city in Nagano Prefecture to Kanazawa, the capital city of Ishikawa Prefecture.
As you journey through central Honsho, you’ll explore some of Japan’s most significant cultural properties and meet artisans eager to demonstrate ancient crafts passed down by their ancestors. The beauty of this route is that every traveller’s journey will be unique, but there are five extraordinary places that deserve to be on every traveller’s Three Star Road itinerary.
Matsumoto castle illuminated after dark © Amy Hopkins
The Three Star Road begins (or ends, depending on where you start) in Matsumoto, a city that comfortably straddles ancient Japan and the modern world. Matsumto’s star attraction is its late 16th-century castle – a striking, six-storey, multiple-roofed structure. The castle's black panelling – a rare sight in Japan – has earned it the nickname “crow castle”.
Inside, a series of steep and snaking staircases lead visitors to the top floor (via the hidden fifth floor). On the way, marvel at display cabinets containing artefacts, ancient armour and weapons from the 15th-century Sengoku period. At the top, narrow windows once used by archers offer spectacular views of Matsumoto. In winter, you’ll look out over a snow-dusted city. In spring, your view is framed by cherry blossoms and you’ll spot signets gliding on the moat below.
A network of charming streets stretches out from the castle’s walls. Admire the patchwork of black and white shop fronts on Nakamachi Street and shop for traditional crafts and souvenirs. Western visitors will revel in the novelty of the custard vending machines on the street and, in shop windows, huge sponge puddings spinning on skewers like kebabs.
The city’s Museum City Museum houses a haunting exhibition dedicated to the work and troubled internal life of Matsumoto-born avant-garde artist Yaoi Kusama and is well worth a visit.
Book an evening tour of Matsumoto Castle. The building is spectacularly lit, creating a dazzling reflection in the moat, and exploring the interior is all the more atmospheric after dark. Shoes are not allowed so, in winter, be sure to double up on socks and take a pair of slippers (most hotels have some you can borrow).
Matsumoto Jujo – Known affectionately as ‘the bookstore hotel’, the recently renovated property features a public bath house repurposed as a library. It’s located in a natural hot spring village and every guest is treated
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