Rugged, tiny Saba is big on natural adventures

20.07.2023 - 11:51 / travelweekly.com

Seeing Saba from the plane for the first time, I thought of the "Star Wars" scene where Obi-Wan Kenobi says, "That's no moon" upon seeing the Death Star. Saba, you see, is no typical island: Dominated by a dormant volcano (Mount Scenery, which last erupted in 1640), it rises abruptly from the Caribbean Sea, its cliffs demanding attention from above.

As spectacular as that aerial view is, arrival is just as breathtaking. Saba's Juancho E. Yrausquin Airport is home to what is widely acknowledged to be the world's shortest commercial runway. About the length of an aircraft carrier, it begins and ends on the edge of a cliff. Depending on one's take, it can be frightening or exhilarating; I found it to be the latter. Takeoffs and landings on twin-turboprop planes are quick and, in this instance, smoother than some I've experienced on a larger airliner. The flight from St. Maarten takes about 12 minutes.

The Dutch territory of Saba is not the typical Caribbean destination that revolves around parties, turquoise waters and sandy beaches. It's a place to relax and enjoy nature and local fare. Saba's waters are a deep, dark blue, and its volcanic coastline is rocky. The sole natural beach, Wells Bay, is nicknamed the disappearing beach because it will at times vanish under water, depending on the tides and the season. 

Visitors to Saba are more likely to spend time hiking than sunbathing. Saba's 20 trails range from easy to strenuous, such as the one on Mount Scenery, which stands at 2,910 feet. It's about a 2.5-hour hike roundtrip across the rainforest. Easier hikes can take as little as 30 minutes roundtrip. On one trail I used a broken tree limb as a makeshift walking stick to aid my descent. While temperatures at lower elevations hover around 80 degrees, trekking to higher spots brings a welcome coolness, especially at night. Comfortable walking shoes are a must, not just for hiking but in general.

Snorkeling and diving in the Saba Marine National Park are also popular activities. On a snorkeling venture with Sea Saba, I saw tropical fish, sea urchins, turtles and underwater lava flows.

Saba calls itself the "Unspoiled Queen of the Caribbean." With a population of about 2,000, 5-square-mile Saba consists of four villages, its capital simply called The Bottom. There are no fast-food restaurants or stoplights.

Saba's primary road (The Road) was hand built starting in 1938; it's dubbed the Impossible Road because Dutch engineers declared its construction as such, but a local man, some helpers and