I've been to Las Vegas many times in the past 15 years with friends and family but most of the time I've gone by myself. As an avid global solo traveler, it's become one of my favorite places to visit.
21.07.2023 - 07:33 / roughguides.com
Rough Guides Editor Amy Hopkins visits Ainokura, a historic village in Japan’s remote Gokayama region, and stays with a resident in his mountain home
“Just pick it up and bite its head off!” Yoshikimi could barely conceal his amusement as he watched me hesitantly prod the small fish, in a clumsy attempt to debone it with chopsticks.
Yoshikimi Ikehata, the writer's host in Ainokura © Amy Hopkins
I was doing my best to play it cool as I got to grips with my host’s unfamiliar diet. Fermented turnip, lotus root and a breakfast of raw eggs were all firsts for me – and the cuisine wasn’t the only thing reminding me I was a long way from home.
Outside, the temperature was minus 12°C; the snow three metres deep. From Tokyo, I’d travelled for five hours by bullet train and bus to reach the remote mountain region of Gokayama in Japan’s west Toyama Prefecture.
I was a guest in the home of 64-year-old Yoshikimi Ikehata. His guest house is one of only 20 homes in Ainokura, a village tucked far back in a valley, flanked by pine-covered peaks. The village has been preserved as a cultural time capsule by its remoteness and its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but its community face an uncertain future.
Ainokura's distinct houses © Mitsuboshi Kaidou
Yoshikimi’s thatched roof house has stood in these mountains for 220 years. Farm houses like his, once used for silk production, are known as gassho-zukri. It means hands-in-prayer, a nod to the distinct triangular roofs which are designed to encourage heavy snow to slide off.
Visitors to Ainokura and neighbouring villages in Gokayama can pre-book an overnight stay in a minshuku, family-run guest houses like Yoshikimi’s. They typically offer between two and six rooms, with shared bathrooms. But AirBnb, this is not. Visitors are guests of the homeowner and are usually only permitted to stay for a single night.
My stay in Ainokura was, therefore, a pause on a longer trip through Japan. I followed a route known as the Three-Star Road. It runs from Kanazawa to Matsumoto in central Japan. Along the way, by shunning the tourist magnets of Tokyo and Kyoto in favour of lesser-visited towns and villages, I discovered pockets of perfectly preserved Japanese culture.
My bedroom at Yoshikimi's guest house © Amy Hopkins
I joined the Three Star Road in Kanazawa, in Japan’s north-western Ishikawa Prefecture. I stepped off the street into an unassuming house and discovered a hive of world-class craftsmanship. A third generation artisan, with grown-up children, Hitoshi Maida, generously demonstrated his skill in kaga yuzen, dying silk to make kimono.
He showed me how the cloth is coloured with natural dyes, washed in river water and fixed with sticky rice glue. I painted flowers onto
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