‘We howled like wolves’: a running break in Scotland’s wild west
04.10.2023 - 12:21
/ theguardian.com
At a viewpoint overlooking a sea of canary-yellow gorse and delicate blackthorn blossom tumbling down to inky Loch Fyne, the six of us howl like wolves into a gentle breeze. It’s an exhilarating moment, adding to the euphoria as we near the end of the four-day retreat’s longest run.
It’s day three, and from our base at Auchgoyle Farm, a once-dilapidated dairy farm going through a rewilding transformation thanks to new owners David and Katharine Lowrie, we’d spent the morning sloshing through peaty burns, scampering across dunes and scrambling over rockpools along the quieter side of the Cowal peninsula. Aptly named Argyll’s secret coast, we barely saw another soul but did spot roe deer hiding in thick bracken, osprey circling overhead and eider ducks ushering their young away from shore.
Though the farm offers self-catering accommodation, in a two-bedroom eco-cabin handbuilt by David and a farmhouse newly refurbished by the couple, Auchgoyle Farm’s running retreats offer a more immersive way to appreciate this less-visited area. Over four days, guests of a range of abilities and experience run between five and 10 miles a day, enjoy restorative yoga sessions, visit a spa, learn about nature and rewilding on farm tours, and indulge in Katharine and David’s home-cooked meals and snacks. It’s part of a growing trend for active retreats: in August, Visit England forecast that in the next 12 months people will be more likely to seek time outdoors to enjoy sports or leisure pursuits.
It’s easy to lose your sense of direction on this convoluted, claw-shaped peninsula, with views of distant mist-clad peaks and islands in all directions. But led by Katharine, we venture deep into ancient woodland and race the tide along hidden bays without looking at a map. On our third day, after howling into the wind, we heave our soggy bodies around hilltop Asgog Loch for the final push, admiring nature’s attempt to consume the ruined castle on its shores before descending into the hamlet of Millhouse and back to base.
The constantly shifting terrain and wildlife spotting along the way keep everyone’s minds off any mile counting. However, this 10 miles is the furthest some in the group have ever run; for others, it’s a nice warm down from a recent marathon. Either way, endorphins are sky-high. While stretching around the farm’s fire pit, we all chatter excitedly, mimicking the swallows and house martins swooping overhead.
The Lowries bought Auchgoyle Farm in 2019. “We didn’t even look at the buildings; for us, it was all about the landscape,” David says over a welcome feast of locally sourced venison and clapshot (a Scottish swede and potato dish). The fire’s lit and we’re cosy as can be in the farmhouse, where running