A festival of music, film and spectacle: the best of Belfast 2024
15.05.2024 - 11:29
/ theguardian.com
Belfast did not have the best of starts to 2024. Never mind the mass public sector strikes, the not-unrelated fact of Northern Ireland being without a functioning government (the government returned, the strikes were settled, or suspended … for now), at the end of January, one of the city’s most respected – revered – publicans, Pedro Donald, who over the years had brought us the John Hewitt, La Boca, the Sunflower and the American Bar, announced that he was leaving for Amsterdam. There may not be bombs and bullets any more, he said, but Belfast was “a dump and derelict”. Indeed, apart from a few good years between the Good Friday agreement and the financial crash, the city was in many ways no further on than when he started in the trade in 1984.
Some bridled at the broadside. But walking towards the Sunflower along Royal Avenue, historically the main shopping street, after 6pm sometimes, you would have been hard-pressed to say Pedro had called it wrong. Hard-pressed, too, to say that the people in whose gift was the title of “city of this” or “capital of that” were being entirely unreasonable when they overlooked bids from Belfast in the not-too-distant past.
The Belfast 2024 festival could not in that sense have come along at a better – which is to say worse – time. It had its origins in the conversations behind one of those failed bids (full disclosure: I contributed to some of those) and emanating from within Belfast city council’s culture and tourism unit. The “collective of creatives, producers and project managers” behind the year-long festival says it wants to “ignite a new chapter” for the city, “a time when we can look forward, dream, imagine and invent what our future city could be”. My first thought on looking at the website was of a city not in hock to the old tribal colours: it pulls off with purple and yellow aplomb the not inconsiderable trick of being eye-catching but not partisan.
Little Amal, the giant puppet of a Syrian girl, continues “The Walk” begun in summer 2021, with a specially devised Belfast itinerary from 16 May (produced by ArtsEkta, directed by Jennifer Rooney, with story by Des Kennedy and music by Neil Martin). It starts, as the city’s history does, at the point where the River Farset meets the larger Lagan. Intriguingly, and less expectedly, Amal will spend the second half of her visit in the city’s old Half Bap district, whose identity is almost lost beneath today’s Cathedral Quarter restaurants and bars. There in the company of local resident “Barney” (and directed now by Stephen Beggs) she will learn how “proposed ‘redevelopment’ has led to displacement of people and businesses”, a reminder that, far from addressing the problems that Donald alluded to, culture and