A first-time guide to Latvia

18.07.2024 - 21:36 / lonelyplanet.com

Jul 18, 2024 • 11 min read

For many first-time visitors, whether traversing the trio of Baltic States on a capital-hopping trip or simply seeking an affordable weekend getaway, Latvia is Rīga. Long considered the most cosmopolitan Baltic city, the country’s capital is as renowned for its handsome Old Town as its inexpensive party scene.

Yet, for many Latvians, the ideal local getaway is the antithesis of a city break. Nature is this nation’s DNA. Foraging for berries, birch sap and mushrooms in pristine forests, taking a Baltic Sea dip (no matter the weather) on a dune-ribboned beach, and embracing age-old bathhouse rituals are all popular pastimes. And with less than two million people calling Latvia –  a country that is roughly half forested – home, you never need stray far to find your own slice of unspoiled serenity.

With story-laden castles, epic trails along deserted shorelines, and an often-overlooked cultural scene, there are abundant reasons to visit Latvia. Here’s our guide to planning your perfect first trip.

If you're focusing on Rīga’s architecture and museums, there isn’t really a bad time to visit Latvia. You’ll just want to dress and pack accordingly. Summer has more reliable, warmer weather and longer days, bringing an animated al fresco atmosphere (and elevated prices) to the city. In December, it’s all about cozy cafes and magical Christmas markets, often accompanied by a sprinkling of fresh snow. However, you might want to skip the coldest, shortest days in January and February – even if costs are as low as the temperatures – unless you’re eager to experience ice swimming, cross-country skiing, or Latvia’s other winter sports.

For less frigid outdoor exploration, plan to visit the national parks between late spring and early autumn when camping is a pleasure, you’re more likely to meet locals out and about foraging, and the weather is generally great for long days of hiking, kayaking or cycling. October is also dazzling when the forests turn golden-hued with fall foliage. Baltic Sea beaches calling? July and August are your best bets for more consistent blue skies and a crammed events calendar, including big festivals like Liepaja’s Summer Sound. Time your visit for June 23 to join the Līgo and Jāņi midsummer festivities. Over these two days celebrating the summer solstice, you’ll experience pagan traditions, flower headdresses, drinking until dawn, and perhaps even leap over a bonfire.

If you’ve only got a weekend to experience Latvia, you’ll likely want to dedicate both days to Rīga. Alternatively, take a whirlwind tour of the Old Town and spend your second day relaxing in the beach resort of Jūrmala (it’s 35 minutes by train to Dubulti station) or visiting Sigulda’s castles and