Every year, Santa is the main attraction in Finnish Lapland. But there’s so much more to discover in this winter wonderland.
In this series, Lonely Planet’s team of writers and editors answers your travel problems and provides tips and hacks to help you plan a hassle-free trip. A question about Lapland? Who better to answer than Kerry Walker, who has a whole sackful of happy memories of auroras, ice fishing and Sámi reindeer encounters.
Question: We are planning a trip for our kids to Lapland to see Santa Claus in December. Is there anything else to see or do there?
Kerry Walker: Sitting on Santa’s lap in a grotto and whispering what you want for Christmas is the reason most people travel all the way to Rovaniemi in Lapland, Finland, in December. But let’s face it: it’s a heck of a journey for a stocking-filler present. Admittedly, you’re going to love it if you’re a kid: gingerbread-decorating elves, magic train rides, Rudolf and his flying friends…the whole spangly, jangly lot. It’s Christmas put through a Disney-like mill and turned up to max.
But far more enchanting is the vast, untouched white wonderland that unfurls north of the Arctic Circle – the ringing silence of frozen fells, the snow-daubed taiga forests and the remote Sámi lavvu tents. There, campfires are lit, stories are told in the light of flickering flames, joik (rhythmic poems) remembering long-lost ancestors are sung, with hot berry juice in hand, and reindeer dash through the deep, crisp, even snow.
First tip: unless you’re coming to see Santa, don’t book in December. Prices spike in the build-up to Christmas, and flights and accommodations are at a premium. Generally speaking, the flakes fall in Lapland from late October to April. Peak season for northern lights is September to April, but you’ll up your chances if you come during the dark days of the Polar Night (late November to mid-January) when the sun doesn’t rise above the horizon.
Most people have heard of Santa’s HQ in Rovaniemi, which is pretty easy to reach on a direct 3.5-hour flight from the UK – but the rest of the region is a mystery waiting to be unwrapped. So where to go?
If you want the high fell and rime-frosted forest drama of Lapland with a pinch of life, try the chilled-out, crowd-free ski resorts of Levi and Ylläs (fly to Kittilä). Here you’ll find Finland’s finest powder for cross-country, downhill and off-piste skiing – and, in Ylläs, the world’s only sauna gondola.
Quieter, you say? Try Saariselkä (fly to Ivalo), 250km (155 miles) north of the Arctic Circle, where you can sled down Lapland’s longest toboggan run and dive into the wondrously white Urho Kekkonen National Park, rolling east to the Russian border. Here you can swish through old-growth pine, spruce
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You can visit his twinkly grotto 365 days a year at the Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi, just five miles south of the Arctic Circle in Finnish Lapland — and a 3.5-hour direct flight from the UK. The resort runs an Elf Academy, welcoming ‘little helpers’ and offering reindeer-driven sleigh rides. It’s also home to Santa Park, which features an ice-sculpture gallery and elfin workshops making gingerbread. If you want to venture out of town, there’s husky sledding and aurora-chasing.
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