French writer Julien Marsault recently enjoyed an off-season adventure on the Brittany coast in northwestern France. Here he shows you what you can see and do on a gentle road trip filled with wildlife spotting, excellent seafood and rejuvenating coastal walks.
Being a freelancer isn't always a walk in the park. Back in late September, I needed a break. My partner couldn't take a full week off for a trip abroad, so we decided to travel for just three days and two nights nearby, exploring a bit more of the region we've been living in for almost two years now. Our goal: a touch of nature, delicious cuisine, and the tranquility of the Breton coast.
We stayed one night in the small harbor city of Paimpol after spending an entire afternoon exploring one of the most beautiful places in the region, Bréhat, known as the 'Island of Flowers.' Despite spring being a distant memory, the location gracefully combined serenity and beauty. It reminded us somewhat of Scotland, with its unpredictable weather, tranquil harbors, and sandy shores giving way to striking red cliffs. Visiting during the off-season allowed us the advantage of walking without many people around and enjoying a comforting cup of coffee in one of the nearly deserted village squares.
The next day we drove for an hour to reach Perros-Guirrec where we would stay for the night. We enjoyed a lovely morning with a leisurely stroll along the stunning pink rocks of Ploumanac'h beach before having lunch in a Breton restaurant: the Crêperie des Flots.
Our trip’s climax was a boat tour of the Sept Îles archipelago (€50 for two). Despite the cloudy sky, we embarked on a nearly three-hour cruise on the water to explore the realm of Northern Gannets, known as "Les fous de bassan" – a bird species renowned for its fishing techniques. This nature reserve is indeed a sight to behold, and if you're as lucky as we are, you might even have the chance to greet a seal basking nonchalantly on its rock.
After visiting the Sept Îles archipelago we made a stop at Le Bleu Marin, a cozy seafood restaurant in Perros-Guirrec. It’s tricky for me not to take advantage of the abundance and quality of Breton fishing during such an excursion. After finding the perfect spot by scrolling through Google Maps (after a few years of practice, I learned how to deal with it), booking a table for two was very quick, and the service was impeccable (once again, the joys of traveling off-season). We relished a splendid selection of shrimp, crabs, oysters, and, most importantly, a fine and crispy bottle of white wine to cap off the day in grand style (€60-70 for two).
It may sound trivial, but as a dedicated cyclist, I was pleasantly surprised by how cheap and smooth it was to travel around by
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