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Discover the “real Ireland” in Skellig Kerry
21.07.2023 - 07:50 / roughguides.com
Away from the tourist hub that is Killarney, discover an exciting area of County Kerry in Ireland that’s rebranding itself and screaming out for independent travellers to explore its rich history and dramatic landscapes.
The Ring of Kerry is a circular road from Killarney that traverses the stunning lakes and mountains of the Iveragh Peninsula. It is a beautiful drive – as long you don’t mind staring at the back of the bus in front of you, a likely sight along this tourist coach-congested road. As the one of the most visited places in Ireland, tourism is the main game in this part of the county. But to the frustration of the locals, there’s one incredible part of the peninsula that most people miss out.
On a turning just off of the Ring of Kerry, the Skellig Ring – a shorter and far steeper route, inaccessible to large vehicles – begins, providing access to an area brimming with history, Irish tradition and gorgeous natural beauty.
An area most famous for the sixth century monastery that sits on the rocky island of Skellig Michael (now being used to film scenes for the new Star Wars film), the Skellig Ring encompasses Valentia Island, the quaint village of Portmagee, and beautiful Ballinskelligs Bay, all of which sit in an area now being rebranded by a few proud and determined residents as “Skellig Kerry”.
Portmagee © Armin Binz/Shutterstock
According to Cormac Dineen, one of the few local residents who are taking tourism development into their own hands by raising funds to make the area more accessible, “it’s just a name of a region that allows this place to be distinctive.”
Cormac – like many others along the Skellig Ring – has grown up on the Iveragh Peninsula but had to move away to find work and support his family. Now he’s back, and with the help of a few other keen locals, he’s crusading for Skellig Kerry to become the place where independent travellers can discover what he calls the “real Ireland” with thousands of years’ worth of history and traditions intact.
“There is an untamed – and untamable – wildness about the Kerry landscape, from our long coastline to our rugged mountains,” he explains.
“The fact that Kerry is one of the most rural counties in Ireland, even today, and it was so far away from the influence of large urban centres until around 30 years ago, means that our traditions, our culture and our accent is still very distinctive and very much a part of our everyday lives here.”
It is this distinct culture that often goes unnoticed by travellers passing by on the Ring of Kerry, or through the peninsula on their way to the Skellig Islands. It can be found all across the Skellig Ring route, from the wooden Siene fishing boat races held along the coastline where rowdy crowds cheer on their
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