What St. Patrick’s Day in Ireland Is Really Like

27.07.2023 - 17:57 / smartertravel.com

Ever wondered what it’s like to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day in Ireland, the holiday’s own green-hued homeland? Despite my long line of Irish heritage, my family has never been able to answer that question for me. Some said it’s a religious holiday, others claimed it’s a tourist play hijacked by beer companies, but most admitted they had no idea what exactly Irish locals do for the national holiday.

After heading to Dublin for a first-hand look at the St. Patrick’s Day festivities, I finally have an answer—and it’s not the one I expected. Yes, there’s plenty of beer, and just as much of the debauchery we have in the States—but there’s also plenty of family-friendly fun, and far fewer tourists than I anticipated. Here’s what St. Patrick’s Day in Ireland is like, and how you can make the most of the travel-worthy holiday.

“Paddy’s Day,” as the locals call it, is indeed a religious holiday in Ireland, but not in the way it once was. Beer company campaigns transformed it from a church-going holiday to a pint-raising one in the 1980s—but the day is still one most locals enjoy with their families. Having a beer with your kids in tow is common at most Paddy’s Day festivals, like the famed Guinness Storehouse’s four-day St. Patrick’s Day Festival. I saw lots of children and babies enjoying live music with their parents at the Storehouse on St. Paddy’s—kids are part of the fun.

St. Patrick’s Day marks the death of Ireland’s fifth-century patron saint, who, according to folklore, introduced Christianity to the Irish and banished snakes from the island. Until the 1980s, most businesses (pubs included) closed for the holiday, which meant Irish families would go to church and enjoy company at home for their day off. Advertising by beer companies helped create the festivities that exist today—beer is one of many things the Irish do well, after all.

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Local families in Dublin flock to O’Connell Street around 11 a.m. to see marching bands and local officials march alongside community arts’ groups, dancers, and festive floats depicting mythical beings, animals, and more. The event is much more eclectic than its American counterparts, and kids as well as adults march in the parade. The spectator crowds are massive, and people show up rain or shine.

Despite warnings about what a touristy mess the events would be, it became clear to me at the parade that the celebration wasn’t exactly for me—and the crowd was mostly made up of locals. Floats and songs recall Irish folk stories, and some locals were generous enough to explain them to me. For example, one swan-shaped float told the tale of the Children of Lir, who, as the story goes, were turned